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Why Vets Don't Recognize Vaccine Reactions www.truthfordogs.com

2012-02-04T18:12:00.002-07:00

Why Vets Don’t Recognize Vaccine Reactions Posted:
17 Dec 2011 12:01 AM PST
You take your perfectly healthy dog to the vet for “her shots.” Early the next morning, she has a seizure — her first seizure ever. You rush your dog back to the vet or an emergency clinic and ask if the seizure had something to do with the shot. Odds are, the vet will tell you, No, it’s not the shot! She might a genetic disorder or possibly even a brain tumor. The timing is just a coincidence.
Or … your dog is suddenly having trouble walking after rabies vaccination. Or he suddenly becomes aggressive. You ask your vet if the condition could be tied to the rabies shot. No, it’s not possible, the vet says. He says has never heard of such a thing. But something tells you the condition and vaccine are related.
Of course, not all veterinarians are reluctant or unable to recognize and deal with vaccine reactions. In fact, the practices of vets trained in homeopathy, Chinese medicine, acupuncture, etc. often revolve around treating reactions caused by vaccination. And, happily, many conventional vets are becoming increasingly worried about over-vaccination and vaccine reactions. But these vets are not the norm.
Many people have written me that they have had to fight with their vet to even get a vaccine reaction considered and noted in their dog’s or cat’s file. The vet doesn’t even want to call the vaccine maker to report or inquire about the reaction.
After you do extensive Internet research, your suspicions grow. You see another vet, or maybe post on this blog looking for answers or you e-mail me. You wonder: why are vets so reluctant to admit that a vaccine (or vaccine combo) caused a reaction? Here are some potential reasons why.
Primary vets don’t see every vaccine reactions because pets are often treated at emergency clinics or by specialists and not reported back. An emergency clinic vet told me about a Basset Hound she had diagnosed with immune-mediated thrombocytopenia. She asked the client if the dog had been recently vaccinated. Finding that he had, she called the Basset’s primary vet to inquire about the vaccine. The primary vet, surprised by the call, asked, “Do you see a lot of immune-mediated disease after vaccination?” She told him she did, usually about 3-4 weeks later. Astounded by the news, he admitted he was glad he hadn’t vaccinated his own dogs in 8 years. He continues to vaccinate clients’ dogs annually.
Vets lack sufficient education. Dr. Ronald Schultz, a member of the AAHA Canine Vaccination Task Force (in 2003, 2006 and 2011) and the WSAVA Vaccination Guidelines Group, has said: “Our new [vet school] grads don’t know a heck of a lot more about vaccines than our older grads. And I’ve figured out why this is. They know a lot more about basic immunology, but they don’t know about vaccinology and the two are not the same.… So we haven’t gone very far from where we were ten years ago or twenty years ago with regard to training veterinarians about vaccines.” (Hear Dr. Schultz talking about this in our Safer Pet Vaccination Benefit Seminar DVD. )
Most continuing education is done by drug company representatives calling on veterinary practices — to sell vaccines. Their message is that vaccines are safe and reactions are extremely rare. Vets buy the products and the message. Despite studies showing that each additional vaccine given during one visit dramatically increases the chance of an adverse reaction, reps peddle products with as many as 7 vaccines to be given at once — with no warnings. Hear safety claims enough and the claims become the truth, whether they are true or not.Vets don’t want the blame for harming your pet. No veterinarian wants to harm an animal. It’s more comfortable to blame the problem on coincidence, genetic defects, other medications, etc. Vets don’t tie the reaction to the vaccine unless it happens almost immediately. Here is what the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) tells dog or cat owners to watch for after vaccination.
Note that most reactions listed are only those happening almost immediately:
Discomfort and swelling at the vaccination site
Mild fever
Decreased appetite and activity
Persistent vomiting or diarrhea
Hives
Swelling of the muzzle. face, neck or eyes
Severe coughing or difficulty breathing
Collapse
Respiratory distress occurring 2-5 days after your pet receives an intranasal Bordetella [kennel cough vaccine]
This list fails to include reactions like shock and death – 8.3% and 5.5% respectively of reactions reported to the USDA. It also doesn’t include vaccine reactions happening within three or more days after vaccination – despite a major study published in the AVMA’s own Journal in 2005. And what about reactions occurring weeks, months and even years after vaccination?
Here is the list first handed out in 2007 by Dr. Ron Schultz regarding adverse events known to be induced via vaccines:
Common Reactions:
LethargyHair loss; hair color change at injection site
FeverSoreness
Stiffness
Refusal to Eat
Conjunctivitis
Sneezing
Oral ulcers

Moderate Reactions:
Immunosupression
Behavioral Changes
Vitiligo
Weight Loss (Cachexia)
Reduced Milk Production
LamenessGranulomas/Abscesses
Hives
Facial Edema
Atopy [allergic hypersensitivity]
Respiratory Disease
Allergic uveitis (Blue Eye)

Severe Reactions Triggered by Vaccines:
Vaccine injection site sarcomas
Anaphylaxis [life-threatening shock]
Arthritis, polyarthritis-HOD hypertrophy Osteodystrophy
Autoimmune Hemolytic Anemia
Immune Mediated thrombocytopenia (IMTP)
Hemolytic Disease of the newborn (Neonatal Isoerythrolysis)
Thyroiditis
Glomerulonephritis
Disease or Enhanced Disease which with the vaccine was designed to prevent
Myocarditis [inflammation of the heart muscle caused by infections, viruses, or immune diseases]
Post vaccinal Encephalitis or polyneuritis
Seizures
Abortion, congenital anomalies, embryonic/fetal death, failure to conceive fertility

Vaccine manufacturers generally test vaccines for reactions for only one year, with the exception of the 3-year rabies vaccine. Testing is expensive so they do only what is required to get approval. After approval, vets seldom report reactions and the USDA rarely takes action unless an inordinate of animals become seriously ill or die. Even then, vaccines are rarely pulled off the market unless they affect human health. Thus, vaccines are considered safe and reactions don’t really happen!!!Vets may worry that they did something wrong. Did your vet fail to tell you about possible reactions? Did he/she vaccinate an unhealthy dog against vaccine label warnings? Was the vaccine given less than two weeks after another vaccine, increasing the likelihood of a reaction? Or given with multiple other vaccines or medications? Or given without examining the dog or cat first? Or was the wrong vaccine used? Or had the vaccine been improperly refrigerated? Vets aren’t taught how to treat many of the reactions. Conventional vets generally treat vaccine reactions with corticosteroids, antibiotics (just in case they’re needed) and/or Benadryl no matter what the reaction is. Conversely, holistic vets treat reactions with diet, supplements, acupuncture, herbs, homeopathy and a whole bag of tricks. You have to “believe” in reactions to want to learn how to treat them.
Vets worry they failed to get your “informed consent” before vaccination. Informed consent means that the vet should have told you about possible reactions and also explained why the shot was necessary before vaccinating. Unfortunately, the great majority of revaccination of adult dogs is unnecessary and never explained. (See Vaccinating Dogs: 10 Steps to Eliminating Unnecessary Shots.) If your dog had a vaccine that wasn’t needed and then suffered a reaction, your vet might worry about a lawsuit or reprimand from state authorities — or unwanted attention from the media.
Vets don’t want to lose your business. Vets don’t want to bother reporting the reaction to the vaccine maker. Despite repeated requests by veterinary organizations to report all suspected reactions, it is suspected that only 1% are reported. Reporting is time consuming. Vets are told by superiors not to admit responsibility. This can be a particular problem for junior members of a practice operating under the rules of the senior partners or practice owner. Vets have to believe vaccines are safe. Vaccines are a big part of veterinary business, both for the direct income derived from vaccines and the office visit, but also for income from medications and other sales and services stemming from the visit — and also for income derived from treating reactions. If they see reaction after reaction, particularly from unnecessary vaccination, they may feel the need to change their policies or change jobs.
Please read Lifelong Immunity – Why Vets Are Pushing Back for more details on why veterinarians continue to over-vaccinate. No matter why your vet isn’t at least considering a vaccine reaction, when something adverse happens after vaccination, it is important to educate yourself. Allow only those vaccines required given your dog’s age, locale and lifestyle. Ask to read the package insert to learn about what reactions are possible. (Don’t presume the vet has read it.)
Learn to recognize a vaccine reaction when you see one and push your vet to consider a reaction if you suspect one. And read What to Do When Your Dog Has a Vaccine Reaction for help in treating your dog, reporting the problem and contacting the manufacturer to try to recover your expenses. There’s an old medical adage: when you hear hoofbeats, think horses, not zebras. That is, when something bad happens to your dog after vaccination, think vaccine reaction, not brain tumor! Trust your instincts!
Related links:
Vaccinating Unhealthy Pets:
Beware Reactions & Vaccine Failure
Post your dog’s rabies reaction and read other readers’ stories here:
The Rabies Vaccine and Your Dog: Side Effects
Protecting Dogs From Vaccine Reactions
Rabies Vaccination: 13 Ways to Vaccinate More Safely DVD: world-renowned scientists Ronald D. Schultz, PhD and W. Jean Dodds, DVM spoke at our Safer Pet Vaccination Benefit Seminar in March 2010. A 2-hour DVD of the event, along with articles by the speakers, is available here. Or learn more about it at http://www.dogs4dogs.com/saferpet. All proceeds less actual shipping costs benefit the study of the rabies vaccine.

What does a Blood Count with Blood Chemistry Test actually test for?

2012-01-26T13:19:00.002-07:00

Complete Blood Count with Blood Chemistry Tests
Test Includes :
Differential count; hematocrit; hemoglobin; mean corpuscular volume (MCV); mean corpuscular hemoglobin (MCH); mean corpuscular hemoglobin concentration (MCHC); percentage and absolute counts; platelet count; red cell count; white blood cell count and all tests listed below.
Use : Evaluate anemia, leukemia, reaction to inflammation and infections, peripheral blood cellular characteristics, state of hydration and dehydration, polycythemia, hemolytic disease of the newborn, inherited disorders of red cells, white cells, and platelets; manage chemotherapy decisions; determine qualitative and quantitative variations in white cell numbers and morphology, morphology of red cells and platelet evaluation.
A/G Ratio : The A/G ratio is the albumin (A) value divided by the globulin (G) value. A low ratio is found in a variety of disease states related to those of liver or kidney and to infections and inflammations.
Albumin : Albumin is the major protein found in blood making up over 60% of the total protein. Low levels of albumin occur in malnutrition, chronic inflammation and severe acute disease and may also manifest with aging. Dehydration caused by exercise or fluid loss can cause increased serum albumin levels.
Alkaline Phosphatase : The origin of this enzyme in the blood of normal adults is primarily from the liver and bone with a small amount from the intestine. Elevations in the blood are usually indicative of liver or bone disease. Children, because of the activity of bone growth, and pregnant women (third trimester) have significantly higher normal values.
Bilirubin : Bilirubin is a yellow colored substance that is produced in the body from hemoglobin and is released when red blood cells disintegrate due to normal aging or damage. The liver removes the bilirubin from the blood to be excreted in the bile. A small amount of bilirubin is present in the blood of normal individuals. Increases in bilirubin are usually due to liver disease, inflammation (hepatitis), liver failure, obstruction of the bile duct, or excessive destruction of red blood cells.
Blood Urea Nitrogen (BUN) : This waste product from protein metabolism is formed in the liver and excreted by the kidneys. High BUN values could mean that the kidneys are not working as well as they should. Low BUN values are less frequent. They could be due to low protein intake, pregnancy, or severe liver failure. BUN/Creatinine Ratio : This number is obtained by dividing the BUN result by the creatinine result. It has little significance when the BUN is normal but can help to determine the cause of high BUN levels. Calcium : Calcium is the most abundant mineral in the body with about 98% found in the skeleton. The calcium level in the blood is normally maintained within a narrow range of about 8.5 to 10.8 mg/dL which is critical for many basic processes such as function of the nervous system and muscles, blood clotting and many others necessary for life.
Excessive secretion of parathyroid hormone (PTH) is one cause of high blood calcium levels. Other possible causes for elevated calcium are bone disease and excess dietary intake of calcium rich foods (milk) or medicines (antacids). Low blood levels of calcium may lead to tetany (spasms of muscles) and can be due to malfunction of the parathyroid glands, kidney disease, vitamin D deficiency and malabsorption caused by disease of the intestine. Either too high or too low a blood level of calcium can be serious and your doctor will know best how to manage them. Cholesterol : Cholesterol is a fatty substance necessary for the proper function of every cell in the body. In the blood, cholesterol is carried in tiny packets encased by various proteins of which the major forms are the HDL and the LDL. High levels of total cholesterol are associated with an increased risk of heart disease caused by thickening of the walls of the coronary arteries. High cholesterol levels can be reduced by nutritional supplements, altering the composition of your diet and by certain medications when diet modifications alone are not sufficient.
Cholesterol/HDL Ratio : This ratio is obtained by dividing the cholesterol result by the HDL result. The higher this number, the greater the risk of developing coronary heart disease (CHD). Conversely, the lower the ratio the lower the risk of developing CHD. HDL Cholesterol : This "good" cholesterol is thought to counteract the effects of LDL cholesterol. The higher the HDL cholesterol the better. High levels of HDL cholesterol are associated with lower risk of developing heart disease. Low levels of HDL are associated with higher risks for heart disease. There are measures that can be taken to increase HDL cholesterol, such as regular exercise and losing weight when being overweight. Your doctor will use the total cholesterol, HDL and LDL cholesterol values to determine what, if any, measures need to be taken to minimize your risk of heart disease. Cholesterol/HDL Ratio : This ratio is obtained by dividing the cholesterol result by the HDL result. The higher this number, the greater the risk of developing coronary heart disease (CHD). Conversely, the lower the ratio the lower the risk of developing CHD. LDL
Cholesterol : LDL cholesterol ("bad cholesterol") is the fraction of your cholesterol tht is implicated in the deposits that thickens the walls of blood vessels. LDL cholesterol values less than 130 mg/dL are desirable. Values higher than 160 are associated with a higher risk for heart disease.
Chloride : Chloride is one of the electrolytes present in blood. The normal concentration is maintained in a narrow range. Your doctor interprets the significance of low or elevated values, in relation to the other electrolytes.
Creatinine : Creatinine is a waste product of muscle metabolism. The blood level is determined by your muscle mass and by the efficiency of the kidneys to excrete creatinine. High values, especially together with a high BUN, usually mean kidney disease.
Globulin : This is the name of a group of proteins, which comprise the remainder of the total protein not present as albumin. It is determined by subtracting albumin from total protein. Low globulin values are found in certain kidney problems, in hematological diseases of the intestine and in other special uncommon conditions. High globulin is found in many types of inflammation, certain infections and in chronic liver disease.
Glucose : In healthy people the blood level of glucose fluctuates in response to food intake and fasting within the fairly narrow range of about 65 to 140 mg/dL. It is therefore important to know whether you had eaten before your blood was drawn or whether you were fasting for at least 8-12 hours. The main uses of glucose testing are in the diagnosis of diabetes mellitus and in the monitoring of treatment and compliance for this condition. If blood glucose levels fall below the lower normal limit, the patient may experience symptoms such as weakness, dizziness, fainting and collapse. This condition is called hypoglycemia. It may occur in diabetic patients whose food intake and insulin dosage are not properly balanced and often in otherwise healthy persons.
Iron : Iron is a critical part of the hemoglobin molecule found in red blood cells. When the body iron is low, the person may eventually suffer from decreased hemoglobin. This is called iron deficiency anemia. Excess iron can be stored in the liver and in other body organs. A rare, but clinically important, disease of excess iron storage is called hemochromatosis. Thus, decreased iron in the blood or increased iron in the blood may be a signal to your doctor for further diagnostic studies.
Lactate Dehydrogenase (LDH) : LDH is an enzyme present in almost all tissues of the body. Any damaged tissue may leak LDH into the blood and increases above normal will be observed. These tissues include heart, liver, muscle, kidney, bone marrow and a variety of tumors. Slight elevations, when other enzymes are normal, are usually of no clinical significance. Strenuous exercise including jogging long distances may result in mild increases in blood LDH.
Phosphorus : Phosphorus, like calcium, is abundant throughout the body with about 85% in the bones. The level in blood varies over a somewhat wide range as food intake can significantly alter blood levels. There are many possible causes for low or high values. The relationship to calcium levels must be considered in determining the significance of an abnormal phosphorus level.
Potassium : The potassium level inside the cells of the body is about 25 times higher than the level in blood. The maintenance of this balance is important for many life functions. Low blood values can occur after prolonged vomiting and diarrhea, in renal disease and in individuals taking diuretics. Elevated blood potassium levels may indicate renal disease. Both low and high values are of clinical significance since potassium is important in the functioning of the neuromuscular system and especially the muscles of the heart.
Sodium : This element, present in body fluids, is the major one of the four "electrolytes" along with potassium, chloride and bicarbonate. Sodium plays a key role in salt and water balance. Low sodium values can be found in a variety of conditions that cause more loss of sodium than water. Some of these conditions are diarrhea, kidney disease and medication with diuretics. High sodium values can occur in conditions resulting in excessive loss of water, e.g. profuse sweating. Your doctor may also evaluate blood sodium levels as they relate to the other electrolytes. Total
Proteins : The plasma proteins serve a number of important functions including maintenance of normal blood volume and water content in the tissues, and maintaining normal acid-base balance in the blood. Values below or above the normal range need further investigation by your doctor to determine which specific proteins are involved.
Transaminase SGOT (AST) : This enzyme has its highest concentrations in heart, liver and muscles. Increased levels in blood are seen shortly after a heart attack, in liver disease and diseases involving muscle damage.
Transaminase SGPT (ALT) : This enzyme is present in higher concentration in liver than in muscle. Consequently an elevation is more specific for liver disease. Both SGOT and SGPT become elevated whenever liver cells are damaged as, for instance, in viral hepatitis.
Triglycerides : Triglycerides are the major form of fat found in nature and are the storage form of fat in the body. Their primary function is to provide energy. The level in blood varies widely depending upon the intake of fat and rate of removal by the tissues of the body. Therefore it is very important to fast for 12-14 hours to obtain a meaningful measure of the triglyceride concentration in the blood. High fasting triglyceride levels are associated with higher risk for coronary heart disease.
Uric Acid : Uric acid is a waste product of the metabolism of the cells in our bodies. Uric acid is a very important antioxidant in mammalians, and, together with BUN and creatinine, is excreted by the kidney. Certain foods such as meat (especially organ meats) may raise uric acid blood levels. Elevated levels of uric acid in blood are much more common than are decreased levels. Increased values are caused by numerous diseases such as gout, kidney failure, diabetes, and the use of diuretics. Low levels of uric acid may indicate a certain nutritional deficiency that should be corrected.
Complete Blood Count (CBC) : In the following a brief explanation is given of the nine different tests that make up a complete blood count. Differential White Blood Cell Count ( "Differential ") : There are five major types of white blood cells: neutrophils, lymphocytes, monocytes, eosinophils and basophils. The "differential count" gives the percentages of these five cell types. Increases or decreases of these individual percentages are characteristic for certain medical conditions. The determination of these percentages helps your doctor to arrive at a specific diagnosis.
Hematocrit (HCT) : Red blood cells make up about 45% of the volume of whole blood. This percentage is called the hematocrit. If the number of red cells is low the hematocrit decreases. Men have somewhat higher hematocrits than do women. Low hematocrit indicates anemia.
Hemoglobin (HGB) : Hemoglobin makes up one third of the mass of each red cell. Hemoglobin carries oxygen from the lung to the tissues of the body. Since men tend to have more red cells than do women, men also have higher hemoglobin levels. Hemoglobin contains iron. A lack of iron due to poor diet or chronic blood loss often causes anemia. In anemia less hemoglobin is available to carry oxygen to the tissues which may result in weakness and tiredness.
Mean Corpuscular Hemoglobin Concentration (MCHC) : As stated earlier hemoglobin makes up about one third of the mass of a red cell, ranging normally from 31 to 36%. When not enough hemoglobin is produced, as for instance in iron deficiency anemia, MCHC values may fall below 25%.
Mean Corpuscular Hemoglobin (MCH) : The weight of hemoglobin in a tiny red blood cell can be calculated. This calculation is the mean corpuscular hemoglobin (MCH). Certain conclusions are drawn from normal, low or high values in the diagnosis of anemia.
Mean Corpuscular Volume (MCV) : Red blood cells are tiny, round disks of a certain average size. The volume of these disk-like corpuscles can be measured. In some types of anemia the MCV is abnormally small and in others abnormally large. MCV is therefore helpful in characterizing an anemia. Platelets : Blood platelets are even smaller than red cells. The same small droplet of blood that contains 5 million red cells also contains between 140,000 and 450,000 platelets. Their function is to stop bleeding from injured small blood vessels as in cuts or abrasions by sticking together and forming plugs. A variety of disease conditions can cause low numbers of platelets. Such patients may bleed more easily and excessively. Higher than normal platelet counts occur in pregnancy or after strenuous exercise. Increased platelets are noted in more serious conditions such as diseases of the bone marrow. Platelets do contribute to coronary heart disease and blood clot formation.
Red Blood Cell Count (RBC) : Red blood cells are the major component of your blood. They cause the red color of blood. One cubic millimeter, a tiny droplet the size of a pinhead, normally contains about 5 million cells! Men generally have more red cells than do women. Red cells are made in the bone marrow and released into the circulating blood. If the number of red cells drops below the lower normal limit, the condition is called anemia. There are many causes of anemia. Rarely, some persons may have too many red cells in their blood, creating a condition called polycythemia. Both conditions can be treated successfully in most cases.
White Blood Cell Count (WBC) : Blood contains a variety of white blood cells. They normally number between 4,000 and 11,000 per cubic millimeter. Their main function is defense against infections and purging of areas of injuries and inflammation. Pus consists mainly of huge numbers of white blood cells. Elevations of the WBC are seen in many conditions such as infections, injuries, after surgery, and in other conditions. A mild decrease in WBC frequently occurs in viral infections. Your doctor will advise you of the significance of any abnormality of white blood cell counts.

Transitioning a Cat to Dehydrated Raw

2012-01-26T10:50:00.002-07:00

From www.TheHonestKitchen.com

January 2012

Learn the importance of moisture in cat food, and how to successfully transition finicky felines!

Why should pet food have moisture?

Kidney diseases and urinary tract issues in cats are rampant in this country. Cats, being desert animals by nature, are designed to get water from their food. A cat's normal prey is at least 70% water. Dry food only contains 5-10% moisture, while canned and dehydrated foods (as well as fresh and frozen raw) have over 70% moisture on an as-fed basis.

The Importance of Moisture in Pet Food
Domestic cats may not be inclined to drink as much water from a bowl as they would from a moving water source, even more so than dogs. This lack of moisture in the diet of our pets can lead to dehydration and kidney issues. Feeding a high moisture food puts that much needed water back into their diet - and ultimately into the digestive tract.

The old adage 'you are what you eat' should be taken one step further to 'you are what you absorb.' This applies to our own diets, but also to that of our paw-ed friends. For adequate absorption and assimilation of ingredients, at least a portion of a pet's meal should consist of two things:

Contain at least 70% moisture (as-fed)
Fresh ingredients (foods that have not been heavily cooked, not exceeding 165 degrees, or extruded
In addition, when feeding a dehydrated pet food (hydrated once fed), this meal contains more fresh ingredients, and the potency and integrity of these ingredients are maintained closer to as nature intended.

Slow change

Cats seem more aversive to change than dogs, so we recommend hydrating very small amounts (pea-size) of Honest Kitchen food initially, and adding this to their current food. Then, gradually increase THK food each day over a period of weeks (if needed). Cats have their preferences, and because they are such tactile creatures, one should play around with the water content - adding more if they enjoy soupy meals or using less water if the preference is a tacky consistency.

Enticements
Including some savory foods like cottage cheese, yogurt, raw or cooked egg can help during the transition.

Trickery

Sometimes a bit of befuddlement is necessary. We've heard much success with this one!
Hydrate the Grace or Prowl food and then dip the cats paw into it. Naturally, since cats want to be clean, will lick their paw - and in the process they become more accustomed to the taste and tastiness of
The Honest Kitchen food!

Free feeding to twice daily

If the cat is used to grazing at will with a bowl of dry food, start by feeding only two times per day, leaving the food out for only an hour each time. Next, add a small amount of rehydrated Honest Kitchen (or canned food initially*).

Testimonials

Less shedding, easier litter box cleanup

My cats are now thriving on Prowl, their hair is softer, less shedding, and what a difference it has made litter box clean up. I would not feed anything else, unless I made it myself..." -Tracey, Furr Kidds

Finicky cat

My cat is finicky...he LOVES the Grace so much that he demands it often...he is also getting extra fluid...and there is no waste of the leftover canned food that he grows tired of before finishing. -Pam and 13 year old Pia

Sensitive tummy
I first looked into The Honest Kitchen's products because Bella had started throwing up after eating her usual dry foods. I took her to the vet and they said that nothing was wrong with her, but she kept getting sick to her stomach. I did some research on my own and found out a lot of unfortunate information on most dry foods. Needless to say, we switched to Prowl and won't be looking back! Bella has not gotten sick at all, after eating Prowl. She loves it & always cleans the entire bowl! -Nichole

Make a Difference for Animals Raised "Organic"

2011-08-12T15:39:00.000-06:00

Dear Humanitarian:
When you see “USDA Certified Organic” on a meat, egg or dairy label, it seems reasonable to assume that the animals were raised under a program with high welfare standards. But that assumption is false. Current organic regulations devote only a few, very vague sentences to how animals are to be housed and treated. This has led to confusion and inconsistency among organic farmers; too often, when it comes to animal welfare, there is little difference between conventional and organic production.Thankfully the Livestock Committee of the National Organic Standards Board (NOSB) is trying to address the problem by recommending changes to the regulations governing physical alterations and space requirements and proposing new regulations on handling, transport, and slaughter. The recommendations are certainly a good start, but they fall short of creating a comprehensive animal welfare program for certified organic operations.
For example, the recommendations ban debeaking of chickens and tail docking of pigs and cattle, but place no limits on dehorning. And although, for the first time, minimum space requirements are being proposed, the amount of space allowed for growing pigs is no better than what is recommended by the National Pork Board for conventional industry production (i.e., factory farming).
WHAT YOU CAN DO:Until April 10, NOSB is accepting public comments on two sets of proposed animal welfare standards. Please take a couple of minutes to write to the Board to encourage it to strengthen the recommendations before they are forwarded on to the USDA. You can submit comments here by filling out the required contact information and either entering your comments directly on the form or attaching a separate document.To assist you, a sample comment is provided below. You can simply copy and paste the sample comment, but putting it in your own words will help give your comment more weight – just be sure to stay under the 2,000-character limit. And please mention if you are a regular consumer of organic products and/or an organic farmer. Sample CommentI am writing to comment on the Livestock Committee’s “Animal Welfare” and “Animal Handling, Transport, and Slaughter” proposals. The NOSB is to be commended for addressing the welfare of animals raised under the organic program. While the proposed recommendations represent a good start toward creating a comprehensive animal welfare program for organic production, several important changes are needed:1. The painful practice of dehorning should be prohibited. If disbudding is allowed, pain relief should be provided.2. Minimum weaning ages for mammals should be added.3. The proposed minimum space allowances, both indoor and outdoor, for growing pigs are seriously inadequate and offer no improvement over conventional production.4. Transport under 7-10 days of age should not be allowed except for medical treatment and, in addition to cattle, this prohibition should apply to other ruminants and pigs as well.5. The transport limit of 12 hours should be lowered to 6 hours for birds.6. Non-ambulatory animals should never be transported off the farm for sale or slaughter, and animals who go down during transport or at the slaughterhouse should be promptly and humanely euthanized. Making these modifications will lessen animal suffering and help bring organic standards closer to what consumers expect of the label. The Livestock Committee’s goal of making the organic seal “the gold standard” for humane treatment is commendable but can only be realized if the current recommendations are strengthened.
To submit your comment online, click here.To submit your comment via mail, send to: Ms. Patricia Atkins
National Organic Standards Board
USDA-AMS-NOP
1400 Independence Avenue, SW
Room 2646-So, Ag Stop 0268
Washington, DC 20250-0268
Identify docket number AMS-NOP-11-0014 on your comment and ensure that it is received by April 10. Please be sure to share our “Dear Humanitarian” eAlert with family, friends, and co-workers, and encourage them to submit a comment, too. As always, thank you very much for your help!
Sincerely,
Cathy Liss
President

Luc Montagnier, Nobel Prize Winner, Takes Homeopathy Seriously

2011-08-12T15:37:00.000-06:00

Dr. Luc Montagnier, the French virologist who won the Nobel Prize in 2008 for discovering the AIDS virus, has surprised the scientific community with his strong support for homeopathic medicine.

In a remarkable interview published in Science magazine of December 24, 2010, (1) Professor Luc Montagnier, has expressed support for the often maligned and misunderstood medical specialty of homeopathic medicine. Although homeopathy has persisted for 200+ years throughout the world and has been the leading alternative treatment method used by physicians in Europe, (2) most conventional physicians and scientists have expressed skepticism about its efficacy due to the extremely small doses of medicines used.

Most clinical research conducted on homeopathic medicines that has been published in peer-review journals have shown positive clinical results,(3, 4) especially in the treatment of respiratory allergies (5, 6), influenza, (7) fibromyalgia, (8, 9) rheumatoid arthritis, (10) childhood diarrhea, (11) post-surgical abdominal surgery recovery, (12) attention deficit disorder, (13) and reduction in the side effects of conventional cancer treatments. (14) In addition to clinical trials, several hundred basic science studies have confirmed the biological activity of homeopathic medicines. One type of basic science trials, called in vitro studies, found 67 experiments (1/3 of them replications) and nearly 3/4 of all replications were positive. (15, 16)

In addition to the wide variety of basic science evidence and clinical research, further evidence for homeopathy resides in the fact that they gained widespread popularity in the U.S. and Europe during the 19th century due to the impressive results people experienced in the treatment of epidemics that raged during that time, including cholera, typhoid, yellow fever, scarlet fever, and influenza.

Montagnier, who is also founder and president of the World Foundation for AIDS Research and Prevention, asserted, "I can't say that homeopathy is right in everything. What I can say now is that the high dilutions (used in homeopathy) are right. High dilutions of something are not nothing. They are water structures which mimic the original molecules."

Here, Montagnier is making reference to his experimental research that confirms one of the controversial features of homeopathic medicine that uses doses of substances that undergo sequential dilution with vigorous shaking in-between each dilution. Although it is common for modern-day scientists to assume that none of the original molecules remain in solution, Montagnier's research (and other of many of his colleagues) has verified that electromagnetic signals of the original medicine remains in the water and has dramatic biological effects.

Montagnier has just taken a new position at Jiaotong University in Shanghai, China (this university is often referred to as "China's MIT"), where he will work in a new institute bearing his name. This work focuses on a new scientific movement at the crossroads of physics, biology, and medicine: the phenomenon of electromagnetic waves produced by DNA in water. He and his team will study both the theoretical basis and the possible applications in medicine.

Montagnier's new research is investigating the electromagnetic waves that he says emanate from the highly diluted DNA of various pathogens. Montagnier asserts, "What we have found is that DNA produces structural changes in water, which persist at very high dilutions, and which lead to resonant electromagnetic signals that we can measure. Not all DNA produces signals that we can detect with our device. The high-intensity signals come from bacterial and viral DNA."

Montagnier affirms that these new observations will lead to novel treatments for many common chronic diseases, including but not limited to autism, Alzheimer's disease, Parkinson's disease, and multiple sclerosis.

Montagnier first wrote about his findings in 2009, (17) and then, in mid-2010, he spoke at a prestigious meeting of fellow Nobelists where he expressed interest in homeopathy and the implications of this system of medicine. (18)

French retirement laws do not allow Montagnier, who is 78 years of age, to work at a public institute, thereby limiting access to research funding. Montagnier acknowledges that getting research funds from Big Pharma and certain other conventional research funding agencies is unlikely due to the atmosphere of antagonism to homeopathy and natural treatment options.

Support from Another Nobel Prize winner

Montagnier's new research evokes memories one of the most sensational stories in French science, often referred to as the 'Benveniste affair.' A highly respected immunologist Dr. Jacques Benveniste., who died in 2004, conducted a study which was replicated in three other university laboratories and that was published in Nature (19). Benveniste and other researchers used extremely diluted doses of substances that created an effect on a type of white blood cell called basophils.

Although Benveniste's work was supposedly debunked, (20) Montagnier considers Benveniste a "modern Galileo" who was far ahead of his day and time and who was attacked for investigating a medical and scientific subject that orthodoxy had mistakenly overlooked and even demonized.

In addition to Benveniste and Montagnier is the weighty opinion of Brian Josephson, Ph.D., who, like Montagnier, is a Nobel Prize-winning scientist.

Responding to an article on homeopathy in New Scientist, Josephson wrote:

Regarding your comments on claims made for homeopathy: criticisms centered around the vanishingly small number of solute molecules present in a solution after it has been repeatedly diluted are beside the point, since advocates of homeopathic remedies attribute their effects not to molecules present in the water, but to modifications of the water's structure.

Simple-minded analysis may suggest that water, being a fluid, cannot have a structure of the kind that such a picture would demand. But cases such as that of liquid crystals, which while flowing like an ordinary fluid can maintain an ordered structure over macroscopic distances, show the limitations of such ways of thinking. There have not, to the best of my knowledge, been any refutations of homeopathy that remain valid after this particular point is taken into account.

A related topic is the phenomenon, claimed by Jacques Benveniste's colleague Yolène Thomas and by others to be well established experimentally, known as "memory of water." If valid, this would be of greater significance than homeopathy itself, and it attests to the limited vision of the modern scientific community that, far from hastening to test such claims, the only response has been to dismiss them out of hand. (21)

Following his comments Josephson, who is an emeritus professor of Cambridge University in England, was asked by New Scientist editors how he became an advocate of unconventional ideas. He responded:

I went to a conference where the French immunologist Jacques Benveniste was talking for the first time about his discovery that water has a 'memory' of compounds that were once dissolved in it -- which might explain how homeopathy works. His findings provoked irrationally strong reactions from scientists, and I was struck by how badly he was treated. (22)
Josephson went on to describe how many scientists today suffer from "pathological disbelief;" that is, they maintain an unscientific attitude that is embodied by the statement "even if it were true I wouldn't believe it."

Even more recently, Josephson wryly responded to the chronic ignorance of homeopathy by its skeptics saying, "The idea that water can have a memory can be readily refuted by any one of a number of easily understood, invalid arguments."

In the new interview in Science, Montagnier also expressed real concern about the unscientific atmosphere that presently exists on certain unconventional subjects such as homeopathy, "I am told that some people have reproduced Benveniste's results, but they are afraid to publish it because of the intellectual terror from people who don't understand it."

Montagnier concluded the interview when asked if he is concerned that he is drifting into pseudoscience, he replied adamantly: "No, because it's not pseudoscience. It's not quackery. These are real phenomena which deserve further study."

The Misinformation That Skeptics Spread

It is remarkable enough that many skeptics of homeopathy actually say that there is "no research" that has shows that homeopathic medicines work. Such statements are clearly false, and yet, such assertions are common on the Internet and even in some peer-review articles. Just a little bit of searching can uncover many high quality studies that have been published in highly respected medical and scientific journals, including the Lancet, BMJ, Pediatrics, Pediatric Infectious Disease Journal, Chest and many others. Although some of these same journals have also published research with negative results to homeopathy, there is simply much more research that shows a positive rather than negative effect.

Misstatements and misinformation on homeopathy are predictable because this system of medicine provides a viable and significant threat to economic interests in medicine, let alone to the very philosophy and worldview of biomedicine. It is therefore not surprising that the British Medical Association had the sheer audacity to refer to homeopathy as "witchcraft." It is quite predictable that when one goes on a witch hunt, one inevitable finds "witches," especially when there are certain benefits to demonizing a potential competitor (homeopathy plays a much larger and more competitive role in Europe than it does in the USA).

Skeptics of homeopathy also have long asserted that homeopathic medicines have "nothing" in them because they are diluted too much. However, new research conducted at the respected Indian Institutes of Technology has confirmed the presence of "nanoparticles" of the starting materials even at extremely high dilutions. Researchers have demonstrated by Transmission Electron Microscopy (TEM), electron diffraction and chemical analysis by Inductively Coupled Plasma-Atomic Emission Spectroscopy (ICP-AES), the presence of physical entities in these extreme dilutions. (24) In the light of this research, it can now be asserted that anyone who says or suggests that there is "nothing" in homeopathic medicines is either simply uninformed or is not being honest.

Because the researchers received confirmation of the existence of nanoparticles at two different homeopathic high potencies (30C and 200C) and because they tested four different medicines (Zincum met./zinc; Aurum met. /gold; Stannum met./tin; and Cuprum met./copper), the researchers concluded that this study provides "concrete evidence."

Although skeptics of homeopathy may assume that homeopathic doses are still too small to have any biological action, such assumptions have also been proven wrong. The multi-disciplinary field of small dose effects is called "hormesis," and approximately 1,000 studies from a wide variety of scientific specialties have confirmed significant and sometimes substantial biological effects from extremely small doses of certain substances on certain biological systems.

A special issue of the peer-review journal, Human and Experimental Toxicology (July 2010), devoted itself to the interface between hormesis and homeopathy. (25) The articles in this issue verify the power of homeopathic doses of various substances.

In closing, it should be noted that skepticism of any subject is important to the evolution of science and medicine. However, as noted above by Nobelist Brian Josephson, many scientists have a "pathological disbelief" in certain subjects that ultimately create an unhealthy and unscientific attitude blocks real truth and real science. Skepticism is at its best when its advocates do not try to cut off research or close down conversation of a subject but instead explore possible new (or old) ways to understand and verify strange but compelling phenomena. We all have this challenge as we explore and evaluate the biological and clinical effects of homeopathic medicines.

REFERENCES:

(1) Enserink M, Newsmaker Interview: Luc Montagnier, French Nobelist Escapes "Intellectual Terror" to Pursue Radical Ideas in China. Science 24 December 2010: Vol. 330 no. 6012 p. 1732. DOI: 10.1126/science.330.6012.1732

(2) Ullman D. Homeopathic Medicine: Europe's #1 Alternative for Doctors. http://www.huffingtonpost.com/dana-ullman/homeopathic-medicine-euro_b_402490.html

(3) Linde L, Clausius N, Ramirez G, et al., "Are the Clinical Effects of Homoeopathy Placebo Effects? A Meta-analysis of Placebo-Controlled Trials," Lancet, September 20, 1997, 350:834-843.

(4) Lüdtke R, Rutten ALB. The conclusions on the effectiveness of homeopathy highly depend on the set of analyzed trials. Journal of Clinical Epidemiology. October 2008. doi: 10.1016/j.jclinepi.2008.06/015.

(5) Taylor, MA, Reilly, D, Llewellyn-Jones, RH, et al., Randomised controlled trial of homoeopathy versus placebo in perennial allergic rhinitis with overview of four trial Series, BMJ, August 19, 2000, 321:471-476.

(6) Ullman, D, Frass, M. A Review of Homeopathic Research in the Treatment of Respiratory Allergies. Alternative Medicine Review. 2010:15,1:48-58. http://www.thorne.com/altmedrev/.fulltext/15/1/48.pdf

(7) Vickers AJ. Homoeopathic Oscillococcinum for preventing and treating influenza and influenza-like syndromes. Cochrane Reviews. 2009.

(8) Bell IR, Lewis II DA, Brooks AJ, et al. Improved clinical status in fibromyalgia patients treated with individualized homeopathic remedies versus placebo, Rheumatology. 2004:1111-5.

(9) Fisher P, Greenwood A, Huskisson EC, et al., "Effect of Homoeopathic Treatment on Fibrositis (Primary Fibromyalgia)," BMJ, 299(August 5, 1989):365-6.

(10) Jonas, WB, Linde, Klaus, and Ramirez, Gilbert, "Homeopathy and Rheumatic Disease," Rheumatic Disease Clinics of North America, February 2000,1:117-123.

(11) Jacobs J, Jonas WB, Jimenez-Perez M, Crothers D, Homeopathy for Childhood Diarrhea: Combined Results and Metaanalysis from Three Randomized, Controlled Clinical Trials, Pediatr Infect Dis J, 2003;22:229-34.

(12) Barnes, J, Resch, KL, Ernst, E, "Homeopathy for Post-Operative Ileus: A Meta-Analysis," Journal of Clinical Gastroenterology, 1997, 25: 628-633.

(13) M, Thurneysen A. Homeopathic treatment of children with attention deficit hyperactivity disorder: a randomised, double blind, placebo controlled crossover trial. Eur J Pediatr. 2005 Dec;164(12):758-67. Epub 2005 Jul 27.

(14) Kassab S, Cummings M, Berkovitz S, van Haselen R, Fisher P. Homeopathic medicines for adverse effects of cancer treatments. Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews 2009, Issue 2.

(15) Witt CM, Bluth M, Albrecht H, Weisshuhn TE, Baumgartner S, Willich SN. The in vitro evidence for an effect of high homeopathic potencies--a systematic review of the literature. Complement Ther Med. 2007 Jun;15(2):128-38. Epub 2007 Mar 28.

(16) Endler PC, Thieves K, Reich C, Matthiessen P, Bonamin L, Scherr C, Baumgartner S. Repetitions of fundamental research models for homeopathically prepared dilutions beyond 10-23: a bibliometric study. Homeopathy, 2010; 99: 25-36.

(17) Luc Montagnier, Jamal Aissa, Stéphane Ferris, Jean-Luc Montagnier, Claude Lavallee, Electromagnetic Signals Are Produced by Aqueous Nanostructures Derived from Bacterial DNA Sequences. Interdiscip Sci Comput Life Sci (2009) 1: 81-90.

http://www.springerlink.com/content/0557v31188m3766x/fulltext.pdf

(18) Nobel laureate gives homeopathy a boost. The Australian. July 5, 2010. http://www.theaustralian.com.au/news/health-science/nobel-laureate-gives-homeopathy-a-boost/story-e6frg8y6-1225887772305

(19) Davenas E, Beauvais F, Amara J, et al. (June 1988). "Human basophil degranulation triggered by very dilute antiserum against IgE". Nature 333 (6176): 816-8.

(20) Maddox J (June 1988). "Can a Greek tragedy be avoided?". Nature 333 (6176): 795-7.

(21) Josephson, B. D., Letter, New Scientist, November 1, 1997.

(22) George A. Lone Voices special: Take nobody's word for it. New Scientist. December 9, 2006.

(23) Personal communication. Brian Josephson to Dana Ullman. January 5, 2011.

(24) Chikramane PS, Suresh AK, Bellare JR, and Govind S. Extreme homeopathic dilutions retain starting materials: A nanoparticulate perspective. Homeopathy. Volume 99, Issue 4, October 2010, 231-242.

(25) Human and Experimental Toxicology, July 2010: http://het.sagepub.com/content/vol29/issue7/

To access free copies of these articles, see: http://www.siomi.it/siomifile/siomi_pdf/BELLE_newsletter.pdf

Truth for Dogs .com Titer Info

2011-08-12T14:59:00.001-06:00

New In-Office Titer Test for Dogs: Test Before Revaccinating
Posted: 11 Aug 2011 01:47 PM PDT

In-Office Titer Test KitBlood antibody titer testing (a simple blood test) is the best way to determine if an animal or human has received immunity from vaccination. (Just giving a vaccine proves only that you’ve given it, not that it worked.)
Testing your pup after her ”puppy shots” tells you if immunity was achieved, potentially eliminating unnecessary revaccination. (Remember, every vaccine brings with it the potential for adverse reactions, ranging from a fever to even death.) Testing a new adult dog, or a dog with unknown vaccination history, helps determine if further vaccination is necessary and tells you which vaccines, if any, to give. In the US, most experts recommend testing for parvovirus and distemper. Most other vaccines are either unnecessary in many areas or don’t confer immunity long enough to bother testing. At this time, titer testing is NOT a legal substitute for rabies vaccination.
If your vet doesn’t test titers as a routine matter before revaccinating, or if the cost is prohibitive, I hope you’ll tell your vet about a new inexpensive, quick in-office test. I am writing about it for information purposes only hoping it will help promote titer testing before routine revaccination. I do not profit financially from this new test. — Jan
To learn more about testing titers, including how often to test and why it is often safer and less expensive than revaccinating, read my article about titer testing. Upcoming is a short article sent to me by Biogal, the maker of the new test, the Canine VacciCheck. Test kits are available for dogs, cats and birds.Titer Testing Can Assist in Avoiding Core Vaccine Over Vaccination
Although most veterinarians agree vaccines are necessary to prevent serious canine and feline infectious diseases, the frequency in which pets are vaccinated is debated.
Why does this matter? Although vaccines are largely safe for healthy animals, adverse reactions, both minor and serious, do occur. This is particularly bad when vaccines were given unnecessarily because the animal didn’t need the vaccine in the first place.
It is known that dogs, after vaccination, often maintain protective antibody to the important core diseases Canine Hepatitis, Parvovirus and Distemper for three or more years. Blood studies have shown immunity for seven years or more. But how do we know that the antibody levels of our pets through vaccination are adequate?
Titer Testing to Determine Duration of Immunity (DOI)
Duration of immunity refers to the length of time an animal is able to resist disease.
Blood antibody tests can be used to demonstrate the DOI after vaccination for many vaccines, including all the core vaccines. When antibodies are present there should be no need to revaccinate the dog or cat for the specific disease tested. If antibody titer is absent, some vets believe a previously vaccinated dog should be revaccinated unless there is a medical basis for not so doing so. Studies have shown, however, that a dog that has had it’s “puppy shots” is likely immune for many years, even for life.
Previously, a significant drawback in performing antibody tests was the cost and the time to obtain results, as it required sending blood or serum to a lab. Consequently, many pets were unnecessarily needlessly vaccinated in the interest of time and money. . Times have changed.
A Concept Change in Titer Testing
The Canine VacciCheck is a rapid, simple, reliable and cost-effective antibody test useful in determining if a dog requires additional vaccination. It can also help determine the vaccination status of a dog with unknown vaccination history or help determine if puppies or kittens have developed immunity from vaccination.
What is also unique about the VacciCheck is that it s test provides a simultaneous result developed for all three core vaccines per test, and results are received within 20 minutes. Veterinary clinics and, shelters and therefore have a quick and simple in-office test that can be performed at a reasonable cost to the pet owner.
In the past, even though there was an intention by many pet owners and /or veterinarians to carry out titer testing for core vaccines as opposed toinstead of automatically revaccinating, the price of a titer test when compared to a vaccination was often prohibitive.
ThereforeAs a result, wWith thea price factor lessened via the use of the VacciCheck, veterinarians can send ‘annual health check’ reminders instead of Vaccination reminder cards for vaccines.
The ‘annual health check’ moves the emphasis from, and client expectation of, annual revaccination, thus saving the client money and eliminating adverse reactions from unnecessary vaccination.
Read what world renowned canine vaccination expert Dr. Ron Schultz wrote about this product.
Another article on vaccination that may be of interest:
Vaccinating Dogs: 10 Steps to Eliminating Unnecessary Shots

Hero's Pets Referral List

2011-05-24T15:03:00.003-06:00

Veterinarians:

Belcaro Animal Hospital-
Dr. Mike Herman
303-333-8800
http://www.belcarovets.com/

Belleview Animal Clinic- (Holistic Vet)
Judy Jasek
303.794.2008
http://www.belleviewanimalclinic.com/our-staff/doctors

VRCC (Veterinary Referral Center of Colorado)
Emergency and Specialty Veterinary Services Center
303.874.7387
www.vrcc.com

Low Cost Spay and Neuter:

Spay Today - Lakewood
http://spay2day.org/ 303-984-7729

Denver Dumb Friends League – At Hero’s Pets 2-3 times per month
http://www.ddfl.org/services/spay-and-neuter-help 303.751.5772

Rocky Mountain Alley Cat Alliance
http://www.rmaca.org/reservations/ 303.202.3516

In Home Euthanasia

Jason Cordeiro, VDM-
jjcvmd@gmail.com 215-715-0678

Alternative Health:

Certified Canine Massage -
Jodi Loomis- 303-596-8245

Acupuncture/ Chiropractic -
Rhea Dodd – 303.919.1504 http://www.gentle-vet.com/veterinarians.asp

Andi Harper – 303.518.3688 www.HarpersRidge.com
DrAndi@HarpersRidge.com

Reiki, Life Force Energy Healing –
Annie Morrissey- 303-887-6903
anniemorrissey@gmail.com

Pet Insurance:

Pets Best- 1.877.PETSBEST
http://www.petsbest.com/home_il.aspx
There are many pet insurance companies available. Hero’s Pets has tried a couple and prefers Pets Best. Please use Hero’s Pets as your referral. Thank you.
Also, we HIGHLY recommend that you have insurance for your pet. Hero’s Pets knows that this can save you thousands and thousands of dollars as we have, personally, used it for everything from Rattlesnake Bites and Colon Cancer to a Splinter in the Eye and a pulled muscle. We also see customers every day that have had to pay thousands for intestinal blockages, broken teeth, pancreatitis, cancer, torn ACL’s etc… these things are not covered by insurance if it is a pre-existing condition. Therefore you should have insurance before it becomes a condition.

Artists:

Brandi Lyons - http://browse.deviantart.com/?qh=§ion=&q=ravenslore (Brandi did Hero’s Pets Logo Dog, the Golden Retriever, Hero)
Dede LaRue- www.ddlarue.com
Ann Ramsey- www.methetree.com

Blogs:
http://whilewalkingduncan.blogspot.com/

Photographers:

Marie Commiskey 303.347.9944 http://www.avalonphotography.com/pets.html
Michelle Browning – 720.308.7205 BrowningFoto@yahoo.com

Groomers:

It’s a Dogs Life Grooming Salon – Littleton - 720-922-9044
Dutch Creek Center - 8250 W. Coal Mine Ave, #3. Littleton 80123

Kelly Rees – 303.838.2556
Mountain Mutt Grooming – 13581 S. Glen Dr., Pine 80470

Trainers:

Retta Dunn- 303-898-8047 razd5@msn.com

Love My Dog Training-
Sue Brown- 720-279-4663 www.LoveMyDogTraining.com

Sit Means Sit Dog Training –
Jon Langdon – 720.362.DOGS www.SitMeansSit.com

The Canine Psychology Center –
Suzi Schaefers – 303.816.0932 www.CaninePsychologyCenter.com

Pet Sitting/Walking:

Happy Paws Pet Sitting-
Sarah Reynolds- 303-916-2880 sarrey88@yahoo.com
Veterinary Technician

Happy Pets and People-
Patti Ibbotson 303-910-2311 happypets_people@q.com

Mary Montoya – 303-898-4374
Available for overnight stays

Doggy Lounge& Nightclub-303-781-4003 www.DoggieLounge.com
Daycare and Boarding – 2061 W. Hampden Ave., Englewood, CO 80110

Doggie Pause – 303.761.8743 www.doggiepause.com
Daycare and Boarding – 3242 S. Acoma St., Englewood 80110

Contact Information for Colorado Pet Adoption Groups

2011-05-24T10:11:00.000-06:00

Online Only:
www.PetFinder.com

Shelters you can visit:

Denver Dumb Friends League: (303) 751-5772
Locations: http://www.ddfl.org/locations
Adoption Link: http://www.ddfl.org/adopt

Maxfund: 303.595.4917
Location: http://www.maxfund.org/locationhours/
Adoption Link: http://www.maxfund.org/adopt-a-dog/

Evergreen Animal Protective League: 303.674.6442
Location: http://www.eapl.com/contact_eapl.html
Adoption Link: http://www.eapl.com/animals_available_adoption.php?pet_type=dog

Foothills Animal Shelter (formally Table Mountain)- 303.278.7575
Location: http://www.foothillsanimalshelter.org/about/hours-and-location/
Adoption Link: http://www.foothillsanimalshelter.org/adopt

Hope for Animals (formally Clear Creek Animal Rescue) - 303.890.1806
Location: http://www.hfaccr.org/RP_Contact.asp
Adoption Link: http://www.hfaccr.org/RP_Adoptable.asp?cid=All

Misha May Foundation - 303.239.0382
Location: http://www.mishamayfoundation.org/contact.html
Adoption Link: http://www.mishamayfoundation.org/adopt.html

Good Samaritan Pet Center- 303.333.2291
Location: http://www.goodsamaritanpetcenter.org/contact.html
Adoption Link: http://www.goodsamaritanpetcenter.org/adoptions.html

Every Creature Counts- 303.546.2704
Location: http://www.everycreaturecounts.org/contact.htm
Adoption Link: http://www.everycreaturecounts.org/
Additional Colorado Shelters - http://www.animalshelter.org/shelters/Colorado.asp

Breed Specific Rescue’s you must make an appointment to visit:
Affenpinscher
Diane Lesher 303-520-0705 cell Dlspot@comcast.net

Afghan Hound
mowermutt@earthlink.net

Airedale Terrier
Airedale Terrier Rescue and Adoption (ATRA)
Lisa Simon 913-422-1470 beaulymonster@comcast.net
Paul Diggins 719-634-2508 pdiggins@gmail.com
Mary Gade 719-488-4544 mmgade@msn.com

Alaskan Malamute
Sharon Nichols 303-653-6496 snichols@nurdog.com

American Cocker Spaniel
rfrazer601@hotmail.com and cocockerrescue@hotmail.com

American Eskimo Dog
Eskie Rescuers United contact@eskierescuers.org
Chris Bradsher 720-291-2395 cat7wmn@msn.com

American Pit Bull Terrier
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Longmont-CO/Colorado-Pit-Bull-Rescue/156463703714
Also, peanutsplacerescue@yahoo.com
adopt@coloradopitbullrescue.com

Australian Cattle Dog PJ@coloradoheelers.com

Australian Shepherd
Aussierescue@lbcompsery.com
http://www.coloradoaussierescue.org/

Australian Terrier
Australian Terrier Rescue, Inc.
Ann Roache 719-495-3679 earoache@aol.com
Barb Curtis 970-482-9163 bcgreyrock@aol.com
Sue Holsinger 303-536-4551 All4dogs@aol.com

Basenji
Colorado Basenji Rescue (303)455-8216
Peggy Shifflet 303-455-8216 inquiry@coloradobasenjirescue.org

Basset Hound
High Country Basset Hound Rescue & Adoption Service, Inc.
Valerie Hunt 303-716-0641 vbhunt@fs.fed.us

Beagle
Colorado Beagle Rescue, Inc.
Carol Larmore 303-464-9403 carol@colobeaglerescue.org

Bedlington Terrier
Bedlington Terrier Club of Greater Denver 303-437-6509
Dennis Corash 303-437-6509 dcorash@gmail.com

Bernese Mountain Dog
Bernese Mountain Dog Club of the Rockies
Ann Rutherford 303-697-0258 bobandann25@msn.com
Pikes Peak Bernese Mountain Dog Club
Patti Davieau 719-494-0148 davieau@aol.com
Linda Adams 719-494-2257

BLUE HEELER - see Australian Cattle Dog

Border Terrier
Kathy Engel Stabler 719-635-4088 ColoradoEarthdog@aol.com
Stan Trummell 720-271-0544 stantrummell@msn.com

Borzoi
Borzoi Welfare Collective
Maggie Rice 303-756-1331 maggie_rice@comcast.net

Boston Terrier
MABTR (MidAmerica Boston Terrier Rescue)
Diane Lesher 303-520-0705 cell Dlspot@comcast.net
Jami David 303-550-1892 Jamijhome@aol.com

Bouvier des Flandres
American Bouvier Rescue League 303-841-6052 LeBeardz@aol.com
Karen Brown 303-841-6052 LeBeardz@aol.com

Boxer
HO-BO Care Boxer Rescue
Marita Rossmueller 303-744-8329 BoxerMarita@aol.com

Brittany
National Brittany Rescue and Adoption Network
Elisabeth Fedde 303-321-3718 elis2280@gmail.com

Brussels Griffon
Diane Lesher 303-520-0705 cell Dlspot@comcast.net

Bull Terrier
Mile High Bull Terrier Club
Sandy Belstock 303-561-3913 s_belstock@yahoo.com

Bulldog
Bulldog Club of America Rescue Network
Susan & Lee Kramer 303-366-3370 Buldgs4evr@aol.com

Bullmastiff
Linda Thompson 719-784-6666 lindaltho@msn.com
Kim theinnkeeper@comcast.net

Cairn Terrier
Cairn Terrier Club of Denver
MaryLou Wilde 303-646-6214 Wildeoaks@q.com
Kathy Engel Stabler 719-635-4088 ColoradoEarthdog@aol.com
Andrea Faucette 303-692-0156 afaucette@qeitech.com

Cardigan Welsh Corgi
Cardigan Welsh Corgi National Rescue 661-831-1416 curticardi@bak.rr.com
Julie Yamane 970-226-2653 clcjmy@comcast.net

Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Club Rescue, Inc.
Carolyn Peterson 970-223-9692 carolp@frii.com

Chesapeake Bay Retriever
http://www.cbrrescue.org/contact.htm

Chihuahua
denver@chihuahua-smalldogrescue.org
board@chihuahua-smalldogrescue.org
adoption@chihuahua-smalldogrescue.org

Chinese Crested
Rocky Mountain Chinese Crested Rescue
Dede Larue 303-239-8202 ddlarue@comcast.net
Mary Sailer 719-648-3667 mlsailer@hotmail.com

Chinese Shar-Pei
Centennial Chinese Sharpei Club
Louise Watson 303-772-7325 watsonL15@aol.com

Collie
Colorado Collie Rescue Inc.
Lisa King 303-833-2167 Aspencoll@aol.com
Pueblo Collie/Sheltie Rescue
Hope Hemperly 719-547-4008 info@pueblocolliesheltie.org

Coonhound:
coongoon@coloradocoonhounds.4t.com
ASHA@coloradocoonhounds.4t.com

CORGI - see Cardigan Welsh Corgi or Pembroke Welsh Corgi

Dachshund
adoption@c2cdr.org adoption@c2cdr.org

Dalmatian
Dalmatian Rescue of Colorado 303-281-8963
Beth White 970-226-2844 melodee101@msn.com

English Setter
All Setter Rescue 303-622-4488 Rwattleson@aol.com
Robert Attleson 303-622-4488 Rwattleson@aol.com
Anna Marie Patrick 719-596-3743 J7Patrick@yahoo.com

English Springer Spaniel
English Springer Rescue of the Rockies, Inc. ESRR Hotline-720-283-6710
Joy Varga 303-246-3978 homeoffice@esrr.org
English Springer Rescue America, Inc. - Rocky Mountain Region
Nadine Van Alstine 303-530-7978 nadineESRA@yahoo.com
Laurie Schirger 303-917-9891 Laurie.ESRA@q.com

Flat-Coated Retriever
Sally Terroux 303-424-7703 Sjterroux@aol.com
__________________________________________________________________________
Fox Terrier: info@foxterrierrescue.org

French Bulldog
Pam & Nancy Pfjohnson502@gmail.com
Chavet
luckiigirl@yahoo.com

Galgo
Abby@galgorescue.org
Telma@galgorescue.org

German Shepherd Dog
Front Range German Shepherd Rescue
Nancie Phelps Relinquish: 303-681-2900 GS44@aol.com
Ann Terry Adopt: 303-765-0390 aaterry26@mac.com
GSDRColorado@wildblue.net
kshort13@comcast.net

German Shorthaired Pointer
Rocky Mountain German Shorthaired Pointer Rescue
Kris Schnobrich 719-429-1435 k.schnobrich57@gmail.com

Giant Schnauzer
HT-Z Giant Schnauzer Rescue, Inc.
Carolyn Janak 303-988-6564 carjanak@aol.com

Golden Retriever
Golden Retriever Rescue of the Rockies 303-279-2400 info@goldenrescue.com
Golden Retriever Freedom Rescue: http://www.goldenretrieverfreedom.com/Groom/contact-us/21/2-staff

Gordon Setter
All Setter Rescue 303-622-4488 Rwattleson@aol.com
Robert Attleson 303-622-4488 Rwattleson@aol.com

Great Dane
Rocky Mountain Great Dane Rescue, Inc. 303-552-0484 adoptadane@rmgreatdane.org
Laura Rubin 303-419-1258 laurarubin@rmgreatdane.org
Lori Rice 303-883-2864 loririce@rmgreatdane.org

Great Pyrenees
Great Pyrenees Rescue (PYRrescue)
Linda & John Kryder 719-495-5810 JLK13990@q.com

Greyhound
Colorado Greyhound Adoptions info@greyhoundadoption.com
Rori Mattson 303-816-2799 rorim1@comcast.net
Sandra Duran 303-398-1804 durans@njhealth.org

Havanese
Havanese Rescue of Colorado
Trude Bershof 303-695-7622 trudebershof@comcast.net

Ibizan Hound
Cheri Talbot 303-986-9360 beezer6636@comcast.net

Irish Setter
All Setter Rescue 303-622-4488 Rwattleson@aol.com
Robert Attleson 303-622-4488 Rwattleson@aol.com
Irish Setter Club of America/Irish Setter Club of Colorado
Nancy King 970-587-5366 redkingstr@aol.com
Sue Murphy 303-819-7696 Redscent.co@att.net

Irish Wolfhound
Rocky Mountain Irish Wolfhound Association Rescue
Karon L. Volk 307-637-8999 karontara@msn.com
Gloria Barrick 303-642-3154 chuckbgold@aol.com

Italian Greyhound
Italian Greyhound Club of America Rescue
Serena Galloway 970-988-4646 Saryna244@ankhu.com
Vivian Leaver-Hauschulz 303-520-8315 vivianleaver@msn.com

Jack Russell:
Post: http://www.jrtrescueco.org/index.php?page=contact

Japanese Chin
Japanese Chin Rescue: Rocky Mountain Region
Tina Jordon 303-755-1119 xpertinvestigate@msn.com
Mark Gill 303-246-9096 mgill25@aol.com

Keeshond
Peak to Peak Keeshond Fanciers, Inc.
Sharon Miller 303-426-6606 silverbearkees@lbtdsl.com
Lonnie Casement 303-279-9469
Carol Schwenk 303-469-4181

Kerry Blue Terrier
Lisa lisaf@pcisys.net

Labrador Retriever
info@safeharborlabrescue.org 303-464-7777
rockymountainlabrescue@gmail.com

Lhasa Apso
Colorado Shih Tzu and Maltese Rescue
Nancy Beims 303-289-2541 nancybeims@coloradoshihtzumalteserescue.com

Maltese
Colorado Shih Tzu and Maltese Rescue
Nancy Beims 303-289-2541 nancybeims@coloradoshihtzumalteserescue.com

Miniature Bull Terrier
Mile High Bull Terrier Club
Sandy Belstock 303-561-3913 s_belstock@yahoo.com

Miniature Pinscher
IMPS ( Internet MinPin Service, Inc.)
Susan Kurzweil 970-663-6738 Susankurzw@aol.com
Karen Smickley 610-509-0995 ksmickley@comcast.net

MINIATURE POODLE - see Poodle

Miniature Schnauzer
Vintage Dog Rescue
Susan Lummanick 720-320-2413 sblummanick@aol.com

Newfoundland
newfrescue@yahoo.com

Norwegian Elkhound
Norwegian Elkhound Rescue
Linda Fredericks 303-583-5873 H lindaf@indra.com
Old English Sheepdog
Old English Sheepdog Rescue of Colorado
Bette Green 719-683-4459 betoes24@cs.com

Papillon
Colorado Peke and Pom Rescue, Inc 303-681-2512 pekeandpom@msn.com

Pekingese
Colorado Peke and Pom Rescue, Inc 303-681-2512 pekeandpom@msn.com

Pembroke Welsh Corgi
Pembroke Welsh Corgi Club of the Rockies
Julie Yamane 970-226-2653 clcjmy@comcast.net
Lynn Kaemmerer 303-794-9246 lkaemmerer@msn.com
Ila McLaughlin 719-683-5338 windyoaks@elpasotel.net

Pharaoh Hound
Cheri Talbot 303-986-9360 beezer6636@comcast.net
PITBULL TERRIER - see American Pit Bull Terrier

Pomeranian
Colorado Peke and Pom Rescue, Inc 303-681-2512 pekeandpom@msn.com

Poodle
Poodle Rescue of the Rockies, Inc.
Jeanne Phipers 303-985-2811 Phipers@msn.com
rescuerehab@earthlink.net

Portuguese Water Dog
Colorado Portuguese Water Dog Club
Joanne Cook 303-621-2497 Nautidog3@yahoo.com

Pug
Colorado Pug Rescue 303-659-9689
Vicki Reichel 303-622-6336 tayreic@aol.com
Lindsay Campbell 720-870-6837 liamsmom27@aol.com

Rottweiler
Rottie Aid (303) 575-1669
Tiffany-
Rottieaid@aol.com

Saint Bernard
Colorado Saint Bernard Rescue, Inc
Linda and Brent Wagner 720-981-1700 cosaintrescue@gmail.com

Samoyed
Denver Samoyed Rescue 303-453-1360 samoyedrescue@msn.com

Schipperke
CRSC of Greater Metro Denver
Ruth Bucy 303-817-5367 mobile rescue@schipperke.com
Donna Keihl 303-757-2726 rescue@schipperke.com

Scottish Terrier
Rocky Mountain Scottish Terrier Club Rescue
Sally and Don Gilman 303-420-5071 mackrail@mac.com

Sealyham Terrier
Pat & Tony Gruda 303-697-1664 pgruda@wispertel.net

SHELTIE –
Judy B therebshelties@sopris.net
Judy H aceh@bresnan.net

Shetland Sheepdog
Colorado Sheltie Rescue
Jenni McKernan 303-783-5772 colosheltierescue@prodigy.net
Pueblo Collie/Sheltie Rescue
Hope Hemperly 719-547-4008 info@pueblocolliesheltie.org
Western Colorado Sheltie Rescue
Judy Baril 970-874-0633 ThereBShelties@sopris.net

Shiba Inu
Shiba Scout Rescue
Rebecca Myers 970-690-2269 shibascout@yahoo.com

Shih Tzu
Colorado Shih Tzu and Maltese Rescue
Nancy Beims 303-289-2541 nancybeims@coloradoshihtzumalteserescue.com

Siberian Husky:
info@polarishuskyrescue.org

Skye Terrier
Columbine Skye Terrier Club
Larry and Vivian Harvey 303-451-6487 LVSkyefire@aol.com

Snow Capped Shepherd Rescue:
WGSRescue@hotmail.com

Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier
Greater Denver Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier Club
Toni Wieland 303-806-5266 heartlanddog@earthlink.net

SPANISH GALGO - see Galgo

SPANISH GREYHOUND - see Galgo

SPRINGER SPANIEL - see English Springer Spaniel

STANDARD BULL TERRIER - see Bull Terrier

STANDARD POODLE - see Poodle

Tibetan Terrier
Rocky Mountain Tibetan Terrier Club 303-355-6761
Cassandra Benton 970-669-0181 classicTT@lpbroadband.net

TOY POODLE - see Poodle

Vizsla
CWVRG- Colorado Wyoming Vizsla Rescue Group
Rita Prindle 970-568-9042 spunki_61981@yahoo.com

Weimaraner
Mile High Weimaraner Club Rescue
Darci Kunard 720-214-3144 coloweimsrescue@yahoo.com

West Highland White Terrier
Westie Rescue Network, Inc. Carol1930@juno.com
Carolyn Foley 303-989-0373 caro1930@juno.com
Paul and Laurie Peterson 719-282-0535 westies@westierescuenetwork.org

Whippet
Casey casey@villapapa.com
Lori wildfirewhippets@juno.com

Wire Fox Terrier
Fox Terrier Rescue of Colorado
Maureen Little 303-850-7852 Ext. 19 info@foxterrierrescue.org
________________________________________

Benefits of Raw Goats Milk

2010-11-20T15:44:00.001-07:00

The Amazing Health Benefits of Raw Goat’s Milk

Hero’s Pets is proud to carry a new line of Raw, Cultured Goat’s Milk by Answers +. Raw Goat’s Milk is the easiest most complete way to deliver raw nutrition. Answers + also makes a full line of raw foods with healing Kombucha Cultures (shown to stimulate the immune system, prevent cancer, and improve digestion and liver function (5)) and added anti-inflammatory Green Tea.

Raw milk tackles chronic ailments including (3):
-Brain and nerve disorders
-Asthma
-Neuralgia
-Fluid Retention
-Liver Disease
-Heavy Metal Poisoning
-Gastric disturbances
-Poor Digestion
-Constipation
-Heart Disease -Malnutrition
-Kidney Disease
-Kidney Stones
-Diabetes
-Obesity
-Colitis
-Irritable Bowel Syndrome
-Diarrhea -Ulcers (more acid-buffering capacity than cow's milk, soy infant formula, and nonprescription antacid drugs)
-Goat milk alkalinizes the digestive system preventing many illnesses
-It contains a group of alkaline minerals, and it does not produce acid in the intestinal system
Goat milk helps to increase the pH of the blood stream because it is the dairy product highest in the amino acid L-glutamine. L-glutamine is an alkalinizing amino acid, often recommended by nutritionists for maintaining intestinal integrity and muscle tissue.

Goat milk compared to Cow’s milk:
-smaller fat molecules -preformed Vitamin A (readily available for use by the body) -higher evolved carotene (pro-Vitamin A with cancer-preventing properties) -more easily and rapidly digestible -13 % more calcium -25 % more vitamin B-6 -47% more vitamin A -134% more potassium -three times more niacin -27 % more of the antioxidant selenium

Is Raw Milk Safe? …. Actually, is pasteurized milk Safe?
“Pasteurized milk from confinement dairies can cause much sickness and many lives.” (2) Pasteurization not only changes milk but it turns it from a healing food to a potentially harmful food. Pasteurization destroys enzymes, diminishes vitamin content, denatures milk proteins, destroys vitamins C, B12, and B6, kills beneficial bacteria, promotes pathogens and is associated with allergies, tooth decay, growth problems, osteoporosis, arthritis, heart disease and cancer (4). Today’s certified raw milk has stricter standards then pasteurized milk. The bacteria count for the standard plate count for pasteurized milk is 15,000 per ml after pasteurization and 25,000 per ml after pasteurization for cream. There are fewer bacteria allowed in certified raw milk then pasteurized milk.

What about Lactose Intolerance?
Lactose is a milk sugar that requires the enzyme lactase to split it into simple sugars for easy digestion. Raw milk is rich in lactase enzyme, aiding in the digestion of lactose. During pasteurization, heat destroys the lactase enzyme. Many people and pets not producing the lactase enzyme cannot digest pasteurized milk, but can digest raw milk without problems.

Why Add Cultures?
Below is a complete breakdown of the ingredients of Kombucha tea and a beneficial function of each. Remember, this describes the final product of the tea, fermented with a Kombucha culture.
LACTIC ACID: essential for the digestive system.
ACETIC ACID: inhibits harmful bacteria.
MALIC ACID: used in the body's detoxification process.
OXALIC ACID: encourages the cellular production of energy.
GLUCONIC ACID: Effective against many yeast infections such as Candida and thrush.
BUTYRIC ACID: may help combat yeast infections such as Candida.
NUCLEIC ACID: Works with the body to aid healthy cell regeneration.
AMINO ACID: A group of acids that are the building blocks of protein. ENZYMES: Proteins that act as catalysts, speeding the rate at which biochemical reactions proceed.
Kombucha also contains Vitamin Groups B and C, Beneficial Yeasts and LIVING Bacteria (like the cultures in yogurt… but more potent and widespread).

Reference:
1) USDA and Prairie View A&M University in Texas 1
2) Dr. Ron Schmid in his book, The Untold Story of Milk, Green Pastures, Contented Cows and Raw Dairy Foods
3) “Raw Milk Cures Many Diseases” was an article written in 1929 by the founder of the Mayo Clinic, John E. Crewe, M.D
(4) Weston A. Price Organization
(5) http://www.mayoclinic.com/health/kombucha-tea/AN01658
http://www.getkombucha.com/2mc.html?awt_l=Aa567&awt_m=9ayEmV.4Vf0jX

The Whole Vaccine Story

2010-11-20T15:41:00.001-07:00

THE WHOLE VACCINE STORY:

What are the dangers of vaccinating?
An immune system that is not in ideal condition cannot convert the intended effect of a vaccine into long-term immunity.

When a vaccination is given a variety of toxins are simultaneously injected directly into the blood stream:
-Live viruses –bacteria -toxins created by bacteria’s -phenols (stabilizer) -mercury (preservative) -aluminum salts and gels (to extend the reaction time, meaning your pet is less likely to react in 48 hours, preventing you from correlating future illness with vaccinosis) -dyes (to make it pretty) -formaldehyde (intended to kill live viruses, but spread unevenly can actually CAUSE illness/disease in the pet) –MSG (stabilizer)

There is no incident in nature that this would ever happen to your pets system, especially not several viruses at a time, as in the case of combo- vaccinations. In nature viruses, bacteria, and pathogens would first have to battle their way through the skin, hair, mucous membranes, digestive system, and immune defenses in the blood, giving the body’s immune system the opportunity and time to martial a defense against the invaders before reaching a level where illness or disease would be acute. Vaccinations are a direct assault on the body in the form of diseases AND toxins, often causing a severe overreaction and sickness.
Sadly, these overreactions are not always in the form of an anaphylactic, immediate reaction.

It is actually more common for them to manifest as chronic disease states such as:
-allergies -behavioral changes/aggression -diabetes -seizures -digestive problems -organ failure -arthritis -liver and kidney problems -cancer - tumors -death

Vaccines can often cause the disease/illness they are designed to protect against and in some cases vaccinations can produce an inability to treat the disease in the vaccination in the event they do contract it, as in the case of Lyme. Some vaccinations, such as Bordatella, actually shed the live virus from the vaccinated pets, causing infection in other animals for up to 7 days post vaccination.

Why haven’t I heard about this before?
Though adverse reactions are extremely common in pets, the majority of pet owners do not know that they are able to report reactions so documentation is limited. Also, vaccine manufacturers do not accept reported incidents as being “vaccine related” if the pet has not exhibited symptoms in less than 48 hours, even though vaccines take up to 45 days become effective and can cause problems for even longer than that and certain ingredients in the vaccinations are specifically put in them to postpone to reaction time.
Veterinarians are also not counseled by vaccine companies to hand out informational pamphlets when vaccinations are given regarding what circumstances pets SHOULDN’T be vaccinated, symptoms of adverse reactions, and where to report reactions.

What are the benefits and who should get vaccinated?
In the rare event that your pet is heavily exposed to diseases from wildlife, stray animals, or travel to certain countries they may actually need vaccinations. Puppies and kittens can be given vaccinations to develop immunity but ONLY after eight weeks of age, only if they are healthy, and only if they are not given in combination (one vaccine at a time with at least two weeks between each to ensure safety and decrease the likelihood of adverse reactions). After the first set of shots ALL pets should only be vaccinated again if a titer proves that the pet has not developed immunity.

What are my alternatives to vaccinations?
Most pets don’t need alternatives to general vaccinations because the initial set creates full immunity. You can prove this by having your vet run a titer blood test. In the case of diseases such as heart worm (yearly exposure to mosquitoes over 80 degrees) or bordatella (a pet’s common cold with over 100 strains) or Giardia (a bacteria in water) where there is no ability for the pet to become immune, naturally boosting your pets immunity with a good quality diet and supplements like goldenseal and bee pollen is sufficient.
In the case of more severe diseases that your adult pet is not likely to contract such as distemper, parvo (both “puppy” diseases because adult pets develop immunity) and rabies, prevention is best. Keeping your pet leashed or indoors, away from wildlife, stray dogs, puppies and kittens under 6 months old and other questionable situations would be adequate.

What if my vet pushes vaccinations even if my dog isn’t high risk or is unhealthy?
In the state of Colorado the only vaccination that is mandatory is rabies. Even in the case of rabies if your pet has had an adverse reaction to a vaccination in the past or if they have a chronic disease state of any kind that compromises their immunity you can get a vaccination exemption from your vet. Even slightly ill, senior, or recently vaccinated pets should NOT be vaccinated.

What is required and how often?
Most vaccinations are unnecessary, unless your pets’ specific lifestyle requires. Vaccinations for diseases such as giardia, bordatella, leptospirosis, corona virus, and distemper are unnecessary and often more damaging to the body, short and long term, then the benefits of the vaccination.

Where do I report an adverse reaction?
-http://vaers.hhs.gov/index
-http://www.nvic.org/reportreaction.aspx
http://www.fda.gov/BiologicsBloodVaccines/SafetyAvailability/ReportaProblem/VaccineAdverseEvents/default.htm

How do I learn more?
Hero’s Pets carries an excellent book called VACCINE GUIDE FOR DOGS & CATS by CATHERINE J.M. DIODATI, MA for $13.95
www.fda.gov lists recalls on vaccinations, foods, and other products (pet & human)
www.truth4dogs.com is a website dedicated to educating the public about vaccinations and pets.

Written by Chelsea Kent at Hero’s Pets
8086 W. Bowles Ave, Unit N
Littleton, CO 80123
303.972.1926
www.HerosPets.com
herospets@gmail.com
www.facebook.com/heros.pets

Chinese Medicine- Hot Foods/Cold Foods

2010-10-27T13:37:00.003-06:00

COLD

VEGETABLES:

Asparagus *
Bean Sprouts *
Bok Choy *
Cauliflower #
Celery *
ChineseCabbage
Chrysanthemum
Cucumber *
DANDELION leaf
Eggplant
SEAWEED
Snow peas#
Turnip
Water chestnuts
Whitemushroom*
White peony root
Zucchini
FRUITS:
Banana *
Blueberry
Cantaloupe
Cranberry
Grapefruit
Kiwi
Lemon *
Mango
Mulberry
Persimmon
Plum#
PINEAPPLE*
Rhubarb
Tangerine
Tomato*
Watermelon
GRAINS:
Wheat germ
MEAT:
Clam *
Crab *
Octopus
SPICES:
Salt*
White pepper.
MISC:
Soy sauce*
Sugar cane
Tofu*

COOL

VEGETABLES:
Alfalfa sprouts Artichoke
Bamboo *
Bitter Gourd
Broccoli *
Cabbage *
Carrot#
Cook. Lettuce
Cooked Onion
Corn *
Daikon radish
Endive lettuce
Lotus root
Mushrooms*
Potato+
Romaine
Snow Pea#
Soybean* Sprouts
Spinach*
Swiss chard
Tomato*
FRUITS:
APPLE *
Avocado
Black currant
Cherries#
Fig
LEMON
Oranges*
Pear
Prunes
Strawberries*
Tangerine

BUCKWHEAT
GRAINS
Amaranth
Barley *
Buckwheat
MILLET
Wheat
Wild rice#
SEEDS
Lima beans
Mung bean
Soybean
MEAT
Duck egg +
Duck *

Goose+
Eggs+
Fresh water snail.
Pork
Rabbit+
SPICES
Cilantro leaf
Marjoram
MINT
Peppermint*
Tamarind
MISC
Cheese+
GREEN TEA
Milk#
Miso soup
Oolong Tea
PEPPERMINT*
Sesame oil
Yogurt

WARM

VEGETABLES
Bell pepper
Chive
Cooked Tomato*
FENNEL
Green bean
Green Pepper+
KALE
Kohlrabi
Leek+
Mustard green
Onion+
Oyster mushroom *
Parsley
Parsnip
PUMPKIN
Scallions
Squash
Sweet potato
Watercress
FRUITS
Blackberry
COCONUT
Dates#
Grapes *
Hawthorn fruit
Kumquat
Litchi
LONGAN
Nectarines
Pomegranates
Quince
Raspberry
GRAINS
Oats
Quinoa
Safflower
Sweet/glutinous rice#
SEEDS
Black bean
Chestnut
Lotus seed
Pine nut
Walnut+

Peanut+
MEAT
Anchovy
Beef+
Butter+
Capers
Chicken+
Eel *
Fresh water fish *
Ham+
Lobster
Mussels *
Pig tripe
Sheep+ & goat
Sheep's milk
Shrimp
Turkey+
Venison
SPICES
Anise
Basil
Bay leaf
Caraway
Carob
Clove
Coriander (also known as Chinese parsley or Pak Chee, in Thai.)
Cumin
Dill seed
Fennel
Fenugreek
Fresh ginger
Jasmine
Nutmeg
Oregano
Rosemary
Sage
Spearmint
Thyme
SWEETENERS
Amasake
Brown sugar+
Malt sugar
Molasses
Sorghum
MISC
Black tea
Coffee+
Goats milk
Plum vinegar
Rice vinegar
Wine+
Vinegar

HOT

VEGETABLES
GARLIC+
Green onion
Raw onions
Red pepper
MEAT
Deep-fried or grilled meat.
Grass fish. *

Smoked Fish +
SPICES
Black pepper+
Cayenne pepper+
Chili pepper+
Horseradish/wasabi
Mustard
MISC
Chocolate+
Cocoa+

Now for a more in depth look at the energetic and medicinal properties of food in TCM:

Nightshades= Blue (Inflammatory, can cause heat and allergies)

Do not feed to dogs = orange

Hormone or Inflammation adjuster = Green

Lectin Binder/ Low Lectin = Purple

FOOD WITH EXTRA MEDICINAL PROPERTIES – ALL CAPS

Yin Foods: *

(Manifestation, magnetism, down, IN, COLD, WET, dark, earth, metal, female, passive and resting, dull)

Yang Foods: +

(Potential, electricity, UP, OUT, HOT, DRY, light, sun, wood, fire, male, activity)

Neutral Foods: #

Vaccination Information... why every pet owner should own this book!

2010-10-27T13:32:00.001-06:00

From

Vaccine Guide for Dogs and Cats. What Every Pet Owner Should Know by Catherine J.M. Diodati, MA

Vaccine Ingredients:

“… All vaccines contain antigens (i.e. viruses, bacteria, or toxins secreted by bacteria), relevant to the disease they are meant to prevent. … Antigens are generally grown and propagated in a feasible culture media, such as bovine fetal serum or upon host tissues derived from certain animals. (… The use of bovine fetal serum in vaccines provides a potentially significant means of transmission {of BSE “Mad Cow Disease”} both to animals and humans). Vaccine antigens are not supposed to be able to cause disease, but as repeated experience has shown, they can remain virulent in the final preparation. They ARE capable of causing disease both in the vaccine and the contacts.

One disinfectant that is commonly used to kill vaccine antigens is formaldehyde (formalin). The use of this extremely toxic and carcinogenic chemical has persisted despite many historical lessons demonstrating its inadequacy. Simply put, it doesn’t always work. Instead of inactivating the antigens, the formaldehyde may instead harden the outer gelatinous debris of clumped proteins, leaving the antigens inside untouched. When this unnatural chemical amalgam enters the body, enzymes digest the hardened out portion, freeing the fully virulent particles to enter cells, replicate and cause disease.

… Vaccines also contain a variety of chemicals intended to prevent contamination by extraneous microorganisms. They may include antibiotics and other additives such as mercury or phenol. Adjuvants such as aluminum salts or gels may be used to prolong the immune response.”

“Kennel cough and infectious tracheobronchitis are general terms used to describe canine respiratory illnesses that can result from a variety of viruses, bacteria, or mycoplasma…. Dogs may experience anything from a dry mild cough to a retching cough…. Depending upon the animal’s age, stress factors, environmental ventilation, nutrition and healthy status, there may be additional signs. … Although the disease may persist for up to 20 days, the severity of the cough will begin to diminish within the first 5 days.

Kennel cough is highly contagious and spread rapidly, particularly in enclosed environments where many dogs are housed. For this reason, hospitalization is not advisable. Treatment largely consists of good general care including proper nutrition and hygiene, and avoiding extreme temperature, ventilation, or humidity variations. Since the disease is ordinarily self-limiting, most dogs will recover very well without further intervention. Extremely ill dogs may be given cough suppressants or antibiotics, but they are rarely indicated. If the infecting pathogen is viral in nature, the use of antibiotics is useless at best and will unnecessarily burden the dog’s immune systems. The efficacy of antibiotics, even for the bacterial Bordetella bronchisptica, is quite limited, and may increase the potential of antibiotic-resistance while doing nothing to improve the dog’s condition. This après to be particularly true of systemic treatment because the antibiotic will not even reach the bacteria. Aerosol antibiotic treatment also is of questionable value since it reduces bacterial densities in the trachea and bronchi only temporarily and may cause labored breathing. If an antibiotic is indicated, it should be chosen based upon the results of specific culture and sensitivity tests.

The first Bordetella bronchiseptica vaccines were whole cell, inactivated, parenteral (injectable) vaccines. They were not well accepted by veterinarians due to their high reaction rates. Dogs often experienced swelling and tissue damage at the injection site, and the vaccine was known to cause fatal anaphylactic shock depending upon the concentration of the antigen.

Canine parainfluenza and Bordetella bronchiseptica combined vaccines have been available since the 1970’s. They contain either modified live parainfluenza and inactivated B. bronchiseptica antigens for the parenteral vaccine or modified live antigens for the intranasal vaccine. … Dogs vaccinated parenterally are still quite capable of infecting other susceptible dogs. A parenterally vaccinated dog becomes a potential source of infection for every dog he meets, for a period of time, whether vaccinated or not. The intranasal vaccine is considered protective after one dose whereas the parenteral vaccine requires two doses and tends to cause local reactions. Differences in efficacy between the two types results from each vaccine’s ability, or lack thereof, to elicit necessary mucosal immunity.

… The parenteral vaccine has been associated with anaphylactic (life-threatening allergic) reactions. The intranasal vaccine has been linked with upper respiratory illnesses. Inadvertent injection of the intranasal vaccine is known to cause liver failure. In one case, for example, a fox terrier was injected with the intranasal parinfluenza B. bronchiseptica vaccine and developed a local reaction- necrosis (tissue death)- degeneration of the liver, thrombocytopenia, as well as a variety of other abnormalities.

Typically, Kennel Cough presents only a mild, self-limiting disease that is easily manageable with basic supportive care. Since the vaccines have a tendency to CAUSE various reactions, not to mention infection itself, one would be well-advised to weigh whether vaccination provides any real benefit.”

Synthetic Ingredients in Pet Food

2010-10-27T13:30:00.003-06:00

The Problem with Synthetic Ingredients in Your Pets’ Food & Treats

Nature created vitamins, minerals, amino acids, enzymes and beneficial bacteria’s to work synergistically to support life. These essential nutrients are balanced and complementary in natural, whole, raw foods. The body combines nutrients to create additional nutrients that are necessary for life and may be lacking in individual foods. Modern science has not uncovered the process to mimic nature’s ability to synthesize crucially synergistic life-like activity in man-made nutrients.

Chemically synthesized nutrients might be contributing to, or outright causing, our pets’ health problems through toxicities, deficiencies, contamination's and lack of research and testing. In the past 5 years alone the pet food industry has recalled millions of dollars of pet foods contaminated with overdoses of synthetic Zinc Oxide, Vitamin D, Vitamin A and Melamine. (Settlements for these recalls have exceeded $25,000,000.00.) These overdoses are known to cause problems such as loss of appetite, vomiting, diarrhea, hypercalcemia, liver and/or kidney failure, pancreatic changes, cervical spondylosis, spinal deterioration or improper growth, death, etc.

The National Research Council & AAFCO (the corporation’s responsible for determining nutritional standards for pet consumables) experts admit, “Knowledge of nutrient requirements & toxicities (of synthetic supplements) is incomplete and/or imprecise in many cases.” (AAFCO) and, “The current scientific literature, however, is not complete enough to support the estimation of maximum tolerable levels for any (synthetic) vitamin. In most cases, however, one can use the literature to estimate ranges of vitamin intake that can be presumed to be safe.” (NRC) They also admit that, “it may represent a virtually unexplored area when two or more synthetic mineral elements are present at high levels.” Most consumable pet products far exceed potentially unsafe levels of synthetics.

Your awareness and ability to purchase foods, treats and supplements with no synthetics ingredients can help keep your pet be healthier and happier. There are many whole foods and synthetic free options available for your pets’ foods, treats and chews.

Hero’s Pets can help you navigate safer whole food options for your pet needs. See our ad above for our address and contact information. Article written by Chelsea Kent.

http://www.topclassactions.com/close/17-menu-foods-contaminated-pet-food-settlement

Digestive Enzymes and your pets' health

2010-10-27T13:28:00.002-06:00

Digestive enzymes: The first line of defense

Raw foods are healthier than cooked foods because they provide the body with a balance of non-synthetic vitamins, minerals, amino acids, and enzymes that work synergistically to support body at optimum levels of health and well-being. Cooking foods destroys many of these naturally occurring ingredients, which decreases the productivity of the digestive tract and causes imbalances in the system. Supplementation of whole food vitamins and enzymes can help prevent the aging effects that cooked foods have on our pets bodies.

Enzymes are necessary for the breakdown of foods, detoxification of the body and hundreds of other metabolic reasons. Adding digestive enzyme supplements to your pets’ diet can assist your pets’ body by replenishing the enzymes that help process fats, carbohydrates and protein, easing the burden placed on the digestive system. The prebiotic, FOS, feeds the native bacteria that naturally replenish these essential enzymes.

Signs of poor digestive health in dogs and cats include:

-bad breath

-gas

-increased stool volume

-hairballs

-excessive shedding, itching and allergies.

Not all enzyme supplements are created equal. Many supplements are made with fillers such as lactose, sugar or preservatives which may increase digestive upset. Many supplements are also manufactured with inadequate levels of prebiotics and probiotics, decreasing the effectiveness of the product. It is important to have Fructo-oligosaccharides added to the enzyme supplement to provide food for the naturally-occurring intestinal flora in conjunction with the enzymes. Also, many digestive enzyme supplements are extremely bitter in taste and difficult to get your pet to agree to eating.

Hero’s Pets recommends In Clover Optagest for ideal health and benefit. It is virtually tasteless, free of all fillers and preservatives, clinically proven to have sufficient levels of enzymes and FOS, and is made in Boulder, CO.

How to properly care for your pets' food

2010-10-27T13:26:00.002-06:00

Proper Care & handling of pet food

It’s quite easy to forsake common sense for convenience, especially when it comes to food, specifically pet food. Bad habits are born of ignorance but thankfully a little education can go a long way to break them.

It's my goal to help you break the bad habits of convenience without making your feel like a bad parent.

First, keep in mind that your animal companion's food is just as perishable as your own. After you purchase your pets’ food it is important to remember that, like a loaf of bread, just because it comes in a bag and has an expiration day a year or so long, doesn’t mean it lasts on your home shelf for that long. The expiration is how long the food is good for BEFORE it is opened, while it is still in an oxygen barrier bag. As soon as you open the bag it is exposed to oxygen and begins to degrade. Natural foods do not contain heavy, toxic chemical preservatives and must be treated how you would treat your own food.

Do NOT:
-Do not leave the bag open and exposed to air after opening it.
-Do not store the food in the sunlight.
-Do not let the food get wet and if it does get wet, throw it away.
-Do not keep the food past expiration even if you do not open it.
-Do not throw the bag away. Even if you store it in an airtight container you MUST keep the batch code.
-Do not poor in your new food before the old food is COMPLETELY gone unless you poor out the old food and put it ON TOP OF the new food. You cannot return foods without the bag and the company cannot test the food if your pet gets sick without the bag.
-Do not accidentally let your pet get into the bin and binge eat. Especially higher quality pet foods are designed with calories packed into every cup so you don't have to feed as much. A 50lb dog that gets into a food storage bin and free feeds can literally eat as many as 55,000 calories in one binge. That can lead to bloat (which can kill your pet if not noticed within 30-45 minutes and requires a VERY expensive trip to the vet if you do catch it in time), obesity, diarrhea, constipation, and other health problems. Make sure your bin has a secure top to keep out your dog, other animals, insects and mice. Also make sure it is stored in a secure location such as on a shelf or in a room with a door that closes on it's own (especially in homes with young children)

Do:
-Feed the food within 30-45 days of opening the bag.
-Throw away what you don’t use by that time.
-KEEP THE BAG (which includes the barcode, expiration date and batch code) until all the food is gone.
-Store the food in an airtight container (preferably still in the original bag inside the airtight container).
-Store the food in a cool and dry place.
-Rinse the container between EVERY use (oils that have perforated your container eventually go rancid and contaminate new food.)
-If the bag of food you purchase doesn't fit in your container then line the food bin with an airtight bag (or put in an empty bag from a previous purchase), poor in what WILL fit and keep the rest either in its original bag, tightly sealed in a cool, dry place until it will fit in the bin OR (better yet) put the remainder of the food that doesn’t fit in your airtight container in zip lock bags in your freezer and remove them as needed (making sure to cut the barcode, batch code and expiration date off the original bag and tape it onto a storage bag) OR purchase smaller bags (you may spend more per pound but you spend less at the vet because the health effects of eating rancid food are not good)

Pet Food Myths:
“You should only feed your dog or cat food labeled specific to their age group or breed”
– False.
You should choose your pets’ food based on not only their age, but their current weight, activity level and health issues. If your 5 month old puppy/kitten is too heavy then puppy food is a poor dietary choice as it is higher in fat and protein. If your 12 year old dog/cat is still active and at a good weight senior food is a poor dietary choice as senior foods help reduce weight for slower metabolisms. High quality formulas generally don’t list their foods to be age specific because of differences in breed and metabolisms. Similarly, if your senior pet is diabetic and overweight switching to a low fat, senior diet can often increase the need for insulin and is a poor dietary choice for lowering the weight of your diabetic pet. Please email, come in, or call for assistance if you’re not sure what to feed.

“You should feed a senior or joint care food to older pets or pets with arthritis”
– False.
There is no such thing as a kibble with sufficient levels of glucosamine and chondroitin to dramatically benefit your dogs’ or cats’ joints. While many pet foods add glucosamine and chondroitin it is generally a small enough quantity to only be adequate for pets without existing joint conditions, such as for maintenance and active pups, but if you need a “joint care” or “arthritis” food you must use a quality, concentrated supplement or raw food for pets with existing conditions. Please email, come in, or call for assistance on determining what is the best supplement for your pet.

"You should start supplementing your pet with glucosamine and chondroitin when they are 4-8 years old... or when they start to show visual symptoms of joint pain."
-False.
Glucosamine and Chondroitin are naturally found in cartilage and other natural sources. On a natural, raw diet all carnivores and omnivores get these "supplements" with every meal from the day they are born to the day they die. Glucosamine, Chondroitin and MSM rebuild the tissue matrix that surrounds the joints and keeps the body strong. These are the things that keep ligaments and tendons from degrading over time and "suffering from old age." Because they are natural ingredients of raw food anything the body doesn't use just get's flushed out so they can't overdose. It is important to start giving your pet joint care supplements at a young age unless you are feeding a raw diet. (And by raw I DON'T mean purchasing raw meats and foods from the grocery store to feed to your pet. I absolutely don't recommend that under any circumstances)

“You must feed your pet a dry food to keep his/her teeth clean”
– False.
There is no food that will adequately clean your dogs’ teeth. Assuming that dry dog food will clean teeth is like assuming toast will clean your teeth because it’s harder than bread. Some formulas use harder kibbles to increase the chew time of each kibble and “clean your pets’ teeth” but you would still brush your teeth to clean them over chewing a handful of nuts everyday. There are many supplements available to ease the burden of everyday brushing and benefit breath and the digestive tract (most bad breath is caused by intestinal bacteria) but it is still best to brush the teeth as often as possible as dental bacteria can lead to heart, kidney and liver failure (and large vet bills). Hero’s P.e.t.s. also has Anesthesia Free Teeth Cleanings. Email, come in, or call for more information.

Hero’s P.e.t.s.

(Planetary & Ecologically Trusted Supplies)

8086 W. Bowles Ave, Unit N

Littleton, CO 80123

303-972-1926

Herospets@gmail.com

www.herospets.com

Sweet Potatoes vs. Yams

2010-10-27T13:24:00.002-06:00

What is the difference between sweet potatoes and yams?

Although yams and sweet potatoes are both angiosperms (flowering plants), they are not related botanically.

Yams are a monocot (a plant having one embryonic seed leaf) and from the Dioscoreaceae or Yam family.

Sweet Potatoes, often called ‘yams’, are a dicot (a plant having two embryonic seed leaves) and are from the Convolvulacea or morning glory family.

Yams
Yams are closely related to lilies and grasses. Native to Africa and Asia, yams vary in size from that of a small potato to a record 130 pounds (as of 1999). There are over 600 varieties of yams and 95% of these crops are grown in Africa. Compared to sweet potatoes, yams are starchier and drier.
Yams are a good source of Vitamin B6, which is needed by the body to break down a substance called homocysteine, which can directly damage blood vessel walls. Yams are a good source of potassium, a mineral that helps to control blood pressure.

Sweet Potatoes
The many varieties of sweet potatoes (Ipomoea batatas) are members of the morning glory family, Convolvulacea. The skin color can range from white to yellow, red, purple or brown. The flesh also ranges in color from white to yellow, orange, or orange-red. Sweet potato varieties are classified as either ‘firm’ or ‘soft’. When cooked, those in the ‘firm’ category remain firm, while ‘soft’ varieties become soft and moist. It is the ‘soft’ varieties that are often labeled as yams in the United States.

Sweet potatoes are packed with massive amounts of vitamin A, a nutrient considered critical in maintaining proper eye health. The sweet potato contains several other vitamins and minerals in amounts not found in the lowly yam. Compared to yams, sweet potatoes contain significantly higher amounts of calcium, iron, and vitamin E, and they twice as much protein per serving.

Why the confusion?
In the United States, firm varieties of sweet potatoes were produced before soft varieties. When soft varieties were first grown commercially, there was a need to differentiate between the two. African slaves had already been calling the ‘soft’ sweet potatoes ‘yams’ because they resembled the yams in Africa. Thus, ‘soft’ sweet potatoes were referred to as ‘yams’ to distinguish them from the ‘firm’ varieties.

Today the U.S. Department of Agriculture requires labels with the term ‘yam’ to be accompanied by the term ‘sweet potato.’ Unless you specifically search for yams, which are usually found in an international market, you are probably eating sweet potatoes!

Reference: http://www.loc.gov/rr/scitech/mysteries/sweetpotato.html

Astragalus, Royal Jelly and Allergy Management

2010-10-27T13:22:00.002-06:00

ASTRAGALUS AND ALLERGY MANAGEMENT

Hay fever (Allergic rhinitis) and conjunctivitis, (inflammation of the eyelid) are the most common manifestations of allergic reactions. Seasonal allergic rhinitis is caused by an allergic reaction to pollens and spores which are carried by the wind. Some of these sources would be ragweed, grass pollen, tree pollen and fungus. In addition to individual sensitivity and geographic differences in local plant populations, the amount of pollen in the air can be a factor in whether hay fever symptoms develop. Hot, dry, windy days are more likely to have increased amounts of pollen in the air than cool, damp, rainy days when most pollen is washed to the ground. Symptoms of allergic rhinitis resemble a cold, but they are not caused by a virus. When you inhale an allergen, your immune system springs into action, releasing substances known as IgEs into your nasal passages, along with inflammatory chemicals such as histamines. Your nose, sinuses, or eyes may become itchy and congested. Scientists aren't sure what causes your immune system to overreact to an allergen.

Astragalus is a plant native to Asia and has been valued by the Chinese for centuries for its immune-enhancing and adaptogenic properties. As an adaptogen, it may modify and improve the body's response to stress through action on the adrenal cortex. Experiments have reported that Astragalus promotes regeneration of cells in the bronchi after viral infection. Astragalus can be safely taken for months without the risk of suppressing immunologic function. It is often used as a gentle and effective remedy for seasonal hay fever and other allergies.

Note: Astragalus should not be used to individuals currently on immunosuppressive medications.

ROYAL JELLY

Royal Jelly contains every essential nutrient necessary to support vital mammalian metabolic functions.

Royal jelly is considered to be one of the nature’s most valuable gifts. This substance is produced by honeybees, and is the exclusive food for the worker bees for the first three days of their life only, but for the entire life of the queen bee. The queen bee is known to live up to 40 times longer than any other hive member… in some cases she’ll live to eight years of age. The only difference between the queen bee and other bees is her nutrition. This fact has led many scientists to research and share the amazing nutritive qualities of the only food she consumes… royal jelly.

Royal jelly has 22 amino acids, including essential aminos, which makes it a complete protein. It offers beta glucans, unsaturated fatty acids, B vitamins, and enzymes.

Royal jelly supplies the required daily nutrients with high biologic value, and in perfect balance. It can be used on prophylactic basis to prevent illness, and adrenal disorders, and on a medicinal basis to aid in recovery from trauma, injury, or diseased states.

Stop by Hero’s Pets to pick up an organic Astragalus and Royal Jelly supplement, and any additional allergy supplementation needed. See our ad above for contact information and location. We are on the Southeast corner of Wadsworth and Bowles.

Article written by Retta Dunn

Why is my pet so anxious???

2010-10-27T13:19:00.001-06:00

Why is my dog so anxious?!?!?!?!?

Many environmental and emotional factors can trigger an anxious episode in a family pet. Separation from family, loud noises, other animals, new places, and children are common triggers, to name a few. Many pet owners are left frustrated and saddened by the miscommunication between pet and owner when trying to deal with these issues. These times can feel overwhelming when it begins to affect your social or personal life and you can’t figure out how to solve the problem. So how is someone supposed to handle an anxious pet?

In your dogs mind, there are several factors that contribute to what, to them, feels like a complete loss of control. Most dogs that are high anxiety need someone, a pack leader, to tell them what to do in times of trouble. Teaching your dog simple commands such as “watch me”, “Sit”, “Down”, “Stay” and other tricks can help focus your pets attention from their anxiety to a task. Additional tasks such as interactive play and chew bones can also give your pet an alternate focus. In some cases even distractions such as playing a radio or television on higher volume can help decrease anxiety, especially in cases of loud noise anxiety.

The sad side effect of some vaccinations is anxiety as well. Often times a vaccine detox will decrease behavioral changes after vaccinating your furry friends.

In extreme cases herbs can be helpful in getting your pet through the really rough times or through initial anxiety training. Herbs such as Valerian, Skullcap, Chamomile, and Kava Kava are often inexpensive and helpful, with no side effects. Bach Flowers such as Rescue Remedy or Pet Essences are also great tools for anxious pets, as well as homeopathic remedies including Aconitum and Chamomilla. However, remember that no matter what internal calming agent you use for your pet it will never last as long as training your pet will. It is important to find a trainer that fits within you and your pets comfort zone that can work with you SPECIFICALLY on anxiety behavior. It is also important to work with an herbalist or veterinarian that is knowledgeable about herbs as some herbs can contribute to allergies or other health problems in pets with existing health conditions.

For more information/assistance stop by Hero’s Pets. 8086 w. Bowles Ave, Unit N. Littleton, CO 80123 (303) 972.1926 herospets@gmail.com

Rabies Vaccinations: How to vaccinate safely

2010-10-27T11:23:00.004-06:00

Rabies is the ONLY vaccination that is mandatory in the state of Colorado. You are not required to have additional vaccinations administered and you should NEVER vaccinate a pet that is in less than perfect health.

Rabies Vaccination: 13 Ways to Vaccinate More Safely

www.truth4dogs.com

Peaches Displaying Her Rabies Vaccine Reaction

Note: this is an expanded version of an article by Jan Rasmusen previously published by DogsNaturallyMagazine.com

Animal Control sends a notice stating that your dog’s rabies vaccination is due. Some of us will vaccinate readily. Because it’s legally mandated, it must be safe, right? Besides, what choice do we have?

Others of us panic, desperate to avoid the shot at any cost. We remember what happened the last time our dog had a rabies vaccination. We wonder, will our dog survive another?

World-renowned pet vaccination scientist, Dr. Jean Dodds, wrote recently: “Rabies vaccines are the most common group of biological products identified in adverse event reports received by the USDA’s Center for Veterinary Biologics (CVB).”

An adverse reaction to a rabies vaccine may exact a high price – to your dog’s health and your wallet. Here’s what you need to know to make vaccinating your dog safer:

1. Learn to recognize adverse reactions. Short-term reactions include vomiting, facial swelling, fever, lethargy, circulatory shock, loss of consciousness and even death. (If your pet appears distressed, contact your vet immediately.) Reactions occurring days or months after vaccination can be difficult to recognize. They include:

• Fibrocarcinomas (cancer) at the injection site

• Seizures and epilepsy

• Autoimmune disease

• Chronic digestive problems

• Allergies

• Skin diseases

• Muscle weakness or atrophy

• Pica (eating inappropriate materials, including feces)

• Behavioral changes (aggression, separation anxiety, compulsive behaviors and more)

If you suspect a health or behavior problem may be connected to a vaccine, you may have to convince your vet. It’s common to hear “it couldn’t be the shot” or “a reaction like that is impossible.” Even the drug’s manufacturer (to whom you should immediately report the reaction — giving them the brand and lot# — may deny the connection. Insist on seeing the product’s package insert, viewable on-line or from your vet. Also know that long-term reactions aren’t usually documented or even studied. Note: a vaccine reaction, especially one supported by your vet, may entitle you to compensation for medical expenses from the drug manufacturer.

2. Vaccinate healthy dogs only. Vaccinating an unhealthy animal can exacerbate illness and do irreparable harm. Also, immunity may not develop after vaccination because of the dog’s compromised immune system. This is especially dangerous as you may presume immunity that does not exist. Pets with autoimmune disease or cancer are obviously “not healthy,” but neither are pets suffering from stress from a move or surgery, a virus or infection, or allergies or skin problems or any other condition compromising health. (Never allow your pet to be vaccinated during surgery.)

3. Ask for a rabies vaccination exemption. If your dog has documented health problems, ask your vet to apply for a rabies vaccination extension or exemption. Many localities permit them even if state law doesn’t specifically allow them. If your vet won’t apply for an exemption, go elsewhere. You may want to contact a holistic vet who may better understand the dangers of vaccinating an unhealthy animal. If local law forbids exemptions, change the law. Numerous states are in the process of adding exemptions to their laws. Click this link to check your state’s rabies law and pending exemptions. http://www.dogs4dogs.com/rabies-laws

4. Don’t vaccinate against rabies within three weeks of other vaccinations or medication for parasites. Multiple vaccines given at once greatly increase the chance of reactions. Multiple vaccines are especially risky for small dogs. http://www.dogs4dogs.com/blog/2009/09/30/vaccinating-small-dogs-risks-vets-arent-revealing/

5. Make sure your dog gets the correct vaccine. If you’re vaccinating a puppy, make sure your vet administers a one-year vaccine initially (as late as legally possible) and a three-year vaccine (or whatever is required in your area) thereafter. The one-year and three-year vaccines are virtually identical medically – but not under the law. A one-year shot must be followed by re-vaccination a year later. Note: the one-year shot is not safer than the three-year (except that it may contain fewer adjuvants).

6. Vaccinate at the safest time. Vaccinate in the morning, early in the week, and don’t leave the area for at least an hour if possible. Watch for reactions for at least the next 48 hours. Reactions occurring when the closest vet’s office is closed can prove disastrous, even fatal.

7. Tell your vet you want a Thimerosol-free vaccine. Thimerosol (mercury) in vaccines has been linked to adverse reactions. Merial, for one, makes one- and three-year thimersol-free rabies vaccines: IMRAB® 1 TF and IMRAB® 3 TF. Make sure you see “TF” on the label. (If your vet doesn’t carry the vaccine, you may have to vet shop to find the vaccine you want. You might also ask why the vet why he/she doesn’t carry it.)

8. Find a vet trained in homeopathy to vaccinate your dog. Certain homeopathic remedies given before, during and after vaccinating can lessen the chance of ill effects from vaccination. Click the link to find vet referral lists. http://www.dogs4dogs.com/vet

9. Report all vaccine reactions to your vet and make sure they’re recorded in your pet’s file. Have the vet sign relevant pages, get copies and put them in a safe place. (Vets lose records, retire and move away.) Also report the reaction to the drug’s manufacturer. (You’ll need the vaccine lot number.) Vets are notoriously bad at reporting reactions, but exemptions to rabies vaccination and drug safety require documentation.

10. Don’t vaccinate within a week of travel. Pets experiencing reactions on route can die for lack of immediate medical assistance. (Find a list of emergency clinics by area at http://www.vetsnearyou.com/ml2/?v=352875029&u=0880F1AAC5EF9BA40210818080F807184B&gclid=CKOmmcXvm6QCFQY-bAodawLaEg (I cannot guarantee the clinics’ expertise, but at least this is a place to start.)

11. Keep copies of vaccination records and titer tests in your car(s) and license tags on your dog’s collar or harness. Otherwise, you may be forced to re-vaccinate if your pet bites someone, runs away and is taken to a shelter or if you have to board your pet unexpectedly.

12. Do not administer a rabies vaccine yourself. It will not satisfy legal requirements and you’ll have to have a vet vaccinate again. You will also be unprepared to deal with a potentially life-threatening reaction. Similarly, a vet’s office may likely be a safer place to get the vaccine than a mobile clinic.

13. Support the Rabies Challenge Fund. http://www.rabieschallengefund.org/ World-renowned scientists, W. Jean Dodds, DVM, and Ronald D. Schultz, PhD, are working as volunteers to increase the interval between rabies boosters by proving that the vaccine gives immunity, first, for five years, and then for seven years. (The study is in year four now.) They’re also working to establish a blood “titer standard” to provide a scientific basis to avoid unnecessary boosters with a simple blood test. This nonprofit group is supported solely by dog lovers and dog groups.

Before the next notice from Animal Control arrives, do your homework. A little time spent learning about the rabies vaccine can mean the difference between your dog’s wellness and serious illness.

***

Get Our DVD: W. Jean Dodds, DVM and Ronald D. Schultz, PhD spoke at our Safer Pet Vaccination Benefit Seminar in March. A DVD of the event will be available shortly. Sign up for more information at http://www.dogs4dogs.com/saferpet . Learn more about rabies vaccination at www.truth4dogs.org and about vaccination in general at http://www.dogs4dogs.com/shots and at http://www.truth4dogs.com .

Don’t forget to sign up for this blog and our free newsletter, due out soon.

Read more about Peaches and her skin disease caused by rabies vaccine reaction (called Ischemic Dermatopathy http://www.dogs4dogs.com/blog4dogs/2009/07/01/rabies-vaccine-skin-reaction-ischemic-dermatopathy/ ).

Colorado Leash Laws

2010-10-27T10:18:00.002-06:00

I had a request to write about Colorado Leash Laws. After some research I came up with a lot of links and a remaining level of confusion. Here are the basics of what I found with a following list of links that might be helpful:

-Colorado State does not have any state-wide leash laws.
-Individual counties within Colorado State may or may not have existing leash laws.
-Jefferson and Denver counties do have leash laws
-Arapahoe county seems to not have leash laws
-If you would like to let your dog off ANYWHERE then you should either check online ahead of time to verify the leash laws within the county that you will be in. Also, you should check to see if the area is authorized to have dogs at all. For example, some hiking trails don't allow dogs at all, leashed or not (such as Hanging Lake near Glenwood Springs).
-Many counties offer off-leash dog parks.
-If you are caught with your dog off leash in a county that does have leash laws you are likely to get fined $50.00, and $50.00 for each additional offense, with a possible $300.00 fine for multiple violations.
-It appears that many counties "Require that dogs and other pet animals be under control at all times and define "control", which may vary from time to time, place to place, and animal to animal". So I guess that if your dog is under perfect voice "control" it is still up to the officer to decide whether or not you deserve a ticket in that county, depending on which county you're in. (This is all very vague... I'm sorry)
-If you are going to walk your dog off leash and risk the ticket, at least make sure they are registered so you don't get fined for that as well.

Please remember that having your dog on a leash at all times CAN serve many purposes. For example, if your pet is charged by an aggressive domestic or wild animal or is presented with some other physical obstacle or accident a leash and harness could potentially allow you to remove or retrieve your pet from a harmful situation more quickly (or at all).

Also, if your pet is within visual distance of you, you are more likely to notice if your pet finds something tasty and dangerous/poisonous on the ground and eats it.
Even well trained pets can be distracted by sudden moving objects such as cats, rabbits, squirrels, etc. A fast moving object might cause your well trained dog to have a lapse in judgment and run out into oncoming traffic.

Dogs don't always notice certain dangers that are right in front of their nose... such as salt used to melt ice (which can burn their paws and later, when they lick their paws, ingesting it could potentially cause health problems), or thin ice, sharp objects like glass, etc. Keeping your dog on a leash allows you to make a last minute pull to stop your dog from stepping on something that is dangerous. (I had to do this once with my dog during a hike when we came upon a rattlesnake. If she hadn't been on the leash it would have bit her right on the nose... no kidding.)

Here are some links for you to reference if you are considering not using a leash for your dog:
"Does my state have a leash law" per state chart with pet control and licensing rules per state. http://www.animallaw.info/articles/ovusdogleashlaws.htm
Jefferson County Sherriff Leash Laws Booklet with contact information for Animal Shelters and more http://co.jefferson.co.us/jeffco/sheriff_uploads/leashlaw.pdf
Jefferson County Animal Control contact and licensing and rules http://co.jefferson.co.us/sheriff/sheriff_T62_R29.htm
Jefferson County pet violations and fines http://co.jefferson.co.us/openspace/openspace_T56_R123.htm
Jefferson County Open Space Rules and Regulations http://co.jefferson.co.us/jeffco/openspace_uploads/rules.pdf
Official Colorado Off Leash Dog Parks and Training Grounds http://co.jefferson.co.us/jeffco/openspace_uploads/off_leash_areas.pdf
Interesting article about Arapahoe County Leash and Vicious dog rules http://www.zwire.com/site/tab2.cfm?newsid=15764261&BRD=2713&PAG=461&dept_id=559184&rfi=6
Arapahoe County Animal Control with links http://www.co.arapahoe.co.us/Departments/PW/AnimalControl/index.asp

NOTE: Incorporate the cost of training into the overall cost of your pet, as training is a necessity... 70% of domestic pets end up in shelters due to insufficient training. Training is not just for your pet, it is for you... you must understand the messages you are sending your pet because they don't always perceive your actions the way you mean them. Also, not all trainers are equal. Petsmart and Petco training is more like socialization training. Some trainers style will clash with your beliefs or desires. INTERVIEW your trainer before committing or paying... find one that you feel comfortable with. Hero's Pets can recommend many great trainers.

Dogs and the Holidays... keeping them safe

2010-10-27T10:10:00.003-06:00

The Holidays and Dogs-
• Cooked bones are very brittle, and splintered pieces can perforate their intestines and/or lodge in your pets gums, requiring veterinary care to prevent infection/abscess or even death. Holiday leftovers need to go into the fridge or animal-proof trash cans as soon as the meal is over.
• Some human food is very unhealthy for animals, such as cooked bones, pies, meat gristle, onions, grapes and chocolate (etc). If you would like your pet to "join in" on your Holiday meal(s) feed Weruva or Tiki Dog Canned "Funky Chunky" or "North Shore Luau", or a properly prepared and sized 'raw' diet designed for pets, such as Primal or Nature's Logic (NEVER feed your pet grocery store, human meat raw. It is likely to contain large amounts of dangerous bacterias. Only feed raw that is designed for pets and is not intended to be cooked). Monitor your dog while he is chewing bones. You know your dog best, and can evaluate his bone chewing responsibility level best. If you question whether or not your pet can responsibly chew a bone, place your dog in a kennel with the bone in the same room as you. This will help prevent potential choking hazards and aggression with guests, children and other pets. Do not feed your pets your "leftovers" after holiday meals because your leftovers are the parts you deemed unsatisfactory for consumption. If you it's know unsatisfactory for you then it's probably not good for your pet either.
• Many color dyes in wrapping paper can be toxic and can make dogs and cats sick. Also, wrapping tape can potentially get stuck in your pets throat. Make sure all paper is picked up and stored in pet safe containers.
• Increased stress can cause people to become annoyed/upset with their pets, treating them differently than usual, which in turn causes unnecessary stress to the animal. Stressed people often leave their pets unattended. Unattended pets are bored pets and bored pets get into trouble. Kennel your pet inside your home, make reservations at a reputable boarding kennel, take your dog to daycare or hire a dog walker/sitter if you are too stressed out to exercise or spend relaxed time with your pet. Also, pets are likely to have increased levels of stress around people that have been drinking, as people can potentially treat pets differently when they've been drinking. The Canine Psychology Center ( www.caninepsychologycenter.com) will tend to your dog with 24 hour, in-home care while you are celebrating your holidays.
• Gifts, especially children toys, are very inviting to dogs. The holiday season is a time when many people find that their dog has a problem deciphering between their own toys and a child's new toys that may have small parts or metal parts that can get stuck in a dog's throat or cause tearing of the thin tissue inside the dog's mouth and throat. To help your pet decipher between what is his and what isn't, trying placing all your pets toys in a "toy box", and only allow your pet to play with toys that go in and come out of that bin. Also, try pet chew deterrent sprays (My favorite is Tropicleans Stay Away). These sprays can be placed on other objects, such as childrens toys, furniture, etc, to prevent your pet from mistaking them for his own. If your pet is particularly stubborn and doesn't "get the point", try disciplining the object that your pet is interested in. Don't make a point of actively involving your pet in this... just watching will be enough for your pet to want no part of that object. Take the object and pretend you are mad at it... stomp at/on it, yell at it, just be angry at it. Do NOT yell at your pet. Your pet is already stressed out during the holidays, just let your pet watch and that should be enough for them to "get the point". If you WANT your pet to unwrap their own presents, consider wrapping them with newspaper or other packing paper (or even paper bags) and using hemp string, rather then tape, to hold it shut to ensure digestibility and safety.
Also, consider purchasing only natural and earth-friendly toys (like the ones sold at Hero's P.e.t.s) because even your pets toys can be toxic. Watch this news brief about toxic pet toys http://www.myfoxdetroit.com/myfox/pages/Home/Detail;jsessionid=DDC4EC56C3D22DAC7C9AF76ED40FD51F?contentId=5125507&version=2&locale=EN-US&layoutCode=VSTY&pageId=1.1.1&sflg=1
New Year's Eve –
• Fireworks, as you know, cause many animals, wild and domestic, to become very stressed out, sometimes running out in the road and getting hit by a car. Some dogs even like to attack fireworks causing serious burns and eye injuries/loss. Kennel your dog inside your home or make reservations at a reputable boarding kennel. ( www.caninepsychologycenter.com ) Hero's Pets also carries the Thundershirt to help with anxiety. If you are in your home with your pet where it is safe and your pet is nervous, try playing music, playing with a laser, ball or doing some other fun activity that will take your pets mind/ears off of the noise.
• Drunk drivers are a serious problem for everyone, but are more prevalent on New Year's Eve. Be sure to take extra special care for yourself and your pet around roads during the holidays. Also, seat belting your pet in your vehicle can prevent many injuries in the event of an accident. Your chance of death increases by 40% if someone, including your pet, is not buckled up in the back seat because they may become a projectile into you. Also, if your pet is ejected from the car (and survives) they are likely to be scared and in shock. If this happens they may run into moving traffic and get hit by another car, or they will make it virtually impossible for an emergency worker or helpful passer-by to catch and help them. In such serious and terrifying events your dog may also bite someone, leaving you with a ticket and/or possible mandatory euthanasia. Seat belt your pets, for their safety and for yours.

Kids & Dogs during the Holidays
Kids and dogs play, that's what they do! There's nothing more adorable than a young child playing with his gentle, loving dog or new Christmas puppy. It is adorable, but not always a good idea with certain dogs. Remember, dogs are pack animals and live by a very strict social order. Us humans are also pack oriented, and have our own proper social order, but dogs and humans have completely different psychologies that make us think at a different level. The problem comes when the family owns a dog or puppy that doesn't view them as any kind of a pack leader. Children are too small physically and don't understand mentally that they should be seen as pack leaders by their dogs and believe it or not, most parents don't even know this crucial fact. However, in a dog pack only members of the same basic age and 'rank' play with one another. Pack leaders don't play, as they have an important job to do and that's protect the pack and keep that strict social order in tact. So, when we allow our children to play physically with our dogs we are literally teaching our dogs to treat all kids with disrespect. Do your research on each breed of dog, as well as the energy level of a potential canine addition to your family and choose an animal that will not be so dominant with children. Incorporate the cost of training into the overall cost of your pet, as training is a necessity... 70% of domestic pets end up in shelters due to insufficient training. Training is not just for your pet, it is for you... you must understand the messages you are sending your pet because they don't always perceive your actions the way you mean them. Also, not all trainers are equal. Petsmart and Petco training is more like socialization training. Some trainers style will clash with your beliefs or desires. INTERVIEW your trainer before committing or paying... find one that you feel comfortable with. Hero's Pets can recommend several great trainers.
If you are considering giving a loved one, or asking for, a new puppy as a Christmas present please consider giving or asking for a gift certificate to a breeder or all natural pet supply shop (so they can purchase necessities for their new pet) rather then an actual pet. That way people can develop a bond with the right pet and prevent any animal's admittance into the local shelter when the unprepared new owner realizes that they didn't make the proper physical, as well as mental, preparations to receive the new puppy or to let them know ahead of time in case they are simply not ready to have a puppy at this time – you will then have enough time to think of another gift that might be more appropriate.

Traveling with your pet

2010-10-27T10:06:00.001-06:00

Traveling with your pet
With the holidays here we are all considering what to do with our pets when we go out of town. Whether we are boarding our pets, hiring pet sitters to come to or stay at our house, having family watch our pet or otherwise, there are things we can do to make our pets more comfortable and happy while we're gone.
Supplementation: No one wants to drug their pet with prescription sedatives during travel or times of stress. Fortunately there are herbal calming supplements available for your pets. If you would like something to help your pet relax consider Pet Essences remedies (such as Anxiety/Fear, Travel, Loneliness/Home Alone, etc), Happy Tails Sleepytime Tonic, Naturvet Quiet Moments or Animals Apawthecary Tranquility Blend.
Other recommendations:
-Sleep- in a t-shirt or with a pet blanket (like West Paws Big Sky Blanket) so your smell gets onto the blanket, then let your pet sleep with it while you are gone.
- Chew Bones- Get some long lasting chew bones to distract your dog while you are away. Long term bones like Ostrich Femurs, Bully Stix, Sarge bones, Bare Bones stuffed with Wysong Organic Peanut Butter or yogurt is a good way to help pass the time away while you are gone. Chew bones are only recommended for dogs that are responsible chewers and won't swallow large chunks of bones when left unattended.
-Intelligence Toys- Tug-a-Jugs, Planet Dog Orbees and Orbos and Kongs can all be filled with treats that your dog must learn to get out. They are extremely durable toys that are hard to chew up (a couple of them are even guaranteed) and you can customize the flavor to your dogs desires. Laser toys are also good for pets to chase and burn some energy on. They can't catch and destroy a laser light but it makes for lots of fun. Lasers should only be used under adult supervision, as they can cause eye damage if pointed directly in the eye.
-Spray- Naturvet Quiet Moments sprays are good for calming cats and dogs in kennels, rooms and other strange situations.
-Catnip- Catnip is calming for dogs and cats. A couple of strategically placed catnip toys or a little bit of catnip in the food can help your pet sleep and relax.
-Aromatherapy- Lavender aromatherapy and other herbs can be very calming to your pet during times of high stress.
-Sometimes separation is the best treatment for stress. If your pet stresses easily, sometimes the best thing you can do is give them a little space. Don't reinforce bad behavior by trying to soothe an over-reactive dog or cat. Simply let them know that you're there for them but leave them alone... give them a chew bone or toy and a calming supplement and take them OUT of the stressful situation, even if that means taking them on a walk or putting them in a kennel.
Our next newsletter will have more tips about how to help your pet cope with children, travel and decorations during the holidays.

What to do in the event of a Rattlesnake Bite

2010-10-27T10:04:00.003-06:00

Rattlesnake Bite Information:

-Health Concerns that are likely to occur due to a rattlesnake bite

-What to do in case of snakebite

-What NOT TO DO

-Six ways to distinguish venomous snakes from their non-venomous relatives

-When are people/pets most likely to encounter snakes?

-The best preparation/prevention

-More information

___________________________________________________________________________________

Things likely to happen due to a rattlesnake bite:

Immediate/Medical Emergency:

-Respiratory malfunction/failure- as venom is a paralytic and depletes blood platelet counts; it often causes breathing to stop before getting to the hospital/vet. It is important to know CPR for people and pets.

-Shock- the bite victim may go into shock. Wikipedia describes shock as: a serious medical condition where the tissue perfusion is insufficient to meet the required supply of oxygen and nutrients. This hypo-perfusion state is a life-threatening medical emergency (mortality rate of 30-50%) and one of the leading causes of death in a critically ill person. There are many types of shock but they all end in organ failure if not treated. To treat: first get help if at all possible, second prepare for and/or give CPR, third stop any hemorrhaging, fourth keep the victim as warm as possible with a sweater, blanket or anything you can use, give as much information as possible when help arrives. Do not offer the victim anything to drink. This is really serious and wikipedia has a very informative section on it. Go to www.wikipedia.org

-Compartment Syndrome- is a situation created by pressure buildup in one fascial compartment. If the pressure in the compartment rises above 30mm Hg the blood supply to the muscles can be completely cut off leading to death of the tissue in the compartment. This is a medical emergency requiring immediate treatment by fasciotomy (the fascia is cut to relieve tension or pressure, this will save the limb but can cause accidental damage to a nearby nerve, surgical scars and a loss of mobility of the joint involved) to allow the pressure to return to normal. If compartment syndrome develops and a fasciotomy is not done there is will most likely be a need for amputation.

-Lethal drop in Blood Platelets- Dogs generally have between 100-200,000 blood platelets (essential for blood clotting), rattlesnake bites can cause a drop below 20,000 platelets, which can cause internal bleeding. Death from hemorrhage can generally occur surprisingly quickly. This is because of ‘positive feedback.’ An example of this is ‘cardiac repression’, when poor heart contraction depletes blood flow to the heart, causing even poorer heart contraction. This kind of effect causes death to occur more quickly than expected. Symptoms include: pale, clammy skin, an increased heart rate and a stupor or confused state. The only step you can perform as first aid is to raise the casualty’s legs; however, if the bite was on the leg, you need to keep the leg with the bite on it below or neutral to the heart.

-Anaphylaxis- If given the anti-venom or anti-venin, there is a chance of anaphylaxis. This is a severe and rapid multi-system allergic reaction. Anaphylaxis does not ALWAYS cause anaphylactic shock, but anaphylactic shock is as common as anaphylactic reactions in this circumstance. Anaphylactic shock is a medical emergency, as brain and organ damage occurs rapidly due to the rapid constriction of airways, decreasing oxygenation throughout the system. Normally anaphylaxis is treated by the administration of epinephrine (or adrenaline), however, this is not something you want to be administering to a patient whose blood you want to circulate as little as possible so as not to spread the venom. Therefore, the anti-venom/venin must be administered at a veterinary facility through an I.V. over the period of several hours… it can only be administered as quickly as an anaphylaxis can be treated.

Note: Recently new brands of anti-venom have been created and the likelihood of anaphylaxis is much, much less. It is a possibility though.

Note: One vial of anti-venom/venin is around $630 and does not HAVE to be given. It is given upon request and most vets don’t carry it. Despite the cost and the possible adverse reaction I highly recommend it if given within 12 hours of the bite. It cannot reverse any damage already done but it can prevent more damage from being done. This could include organ failure, muscle tissue loss, etc.

Immediate but not a medical emergency:

-Excruciating pain- the pain, I hear, comes in waves and drags on. Even if not bitten on a limb it is likely that the victim will be incapacitated by the pain and will not be able to move much. The venom is a neurotoxin and paralytic as well.

-Swelling- swelling is the enlargement of organs caused by accumulation of excess fluid in tissues, called edema. Tthe swelling can increase to the point that it damages (possibly permanently) the fascia of the area (fascia is a sheet or band of fibrous connective tissue that separates or binds together muscles or organs) called compartment syndrome.

- Inflammation- Swelling is one of four symptoms of inflammation. Inflammation is characterized by the following quintet: redness, heat, swelling, pain and dysfunction of the organs involved.

-Bruising- is a kind of injury in which the capillaries are damaged, allowing blood to seep into the surrounding tissue. Sometimes bruises can be serious, leading to hematoma (internal bleeding- excess fluid accumulation, forming a hard lump). If bruising is severe, complications may arise. If internal bleeding inside the tissue is very severe, compartment syndrome may occur, leading to disrupted blood flow due to swelling; this can require surgery. Treatments for severe bruising can include RICE: Rest, Ice, Compression bandages and Elevation, and painkillers. Massaging severe bruises will worsen the injury. Later in recovery, some light stretching exercises may be appropriate, but it is probably best to consult a doctor If a severely bruised muscle is used too early in the recovery process, bone tissue may be formed inside the muscle, leading to lasting stiffness and pain. The bruising is bright red, purple, black and blue... and there is lots of it. OUCH!!!

-Hematoma- a collection of blood, generally the result of hemorrhage, or, more specifically, internal bleeding. Hematomas exist as bruises but can also develop in organs.

-Nausea- The extreme pain can be one of many causes of nausea. Another cause may be adverse effects of many drugs, or the development of ulcers from the many drugs needed to stabilize a patient after a bite. It is likely the victim will have to take anti-nausea medication during recovery…if nothing else so that the patient can keep other drugs (such as anti-biotics and pain killers) down.

-Painful swelling of the lymph nodes- Mostly in the armpit and/or groin, but potentially in the neck, chest and abdomen as well. Lymph nodes act as filters, with an internal honeycomb of connective tissue that collect and destroy bacteria and viruses. These small, bean-shaped body cleansers will attempt to clean the venom out of the system and are likely to swell, bruise, and become hard and painful.

Not necessarily immediate but very likely:

Note: many of the symptoms listed above may happen later too. Just because your pet did not get some of the above listed symptoms immediately, does not mean they will not get them so you need to keep an eye out for ALL of these symptoms for the duration of recovery.

-Stomach and Intestinal Ulceration- Doctors and Vets have no choice but to administer a chemical cocktail when a rattlesnake bite victim enters their care, unless the victim received a "dry" bite with no venom (which would be obvious by the time they got a doctor anyway). The mixture of drugs used to stabilize and treat the patient often interacts and causes stomach ulcers. Ulcers are open sores of the skin, eyes or mucous membranes (stomach, etc). Ulcers have a lengthy healing time, are painful/ uncomfortable and can become necrotic and/or can become infected. This doesn’t happen immediately, and may not happen at all, but if it does it will require treatment for a while.

-Muscle Twitching/Fasciculation- These are small, local, involuntary muscle contractions visible under the skin arising from the spontaneous discharge of a bundle of skeletal muscle fibers. I don't know if this is from the body detoxifying the venom (Wikipedia does indicate this as a ‘side effect’ of ‘poisoning’) or from the multitude of drugs, or from stress and anxiety or something else... either way, it's a little scary. Calcium and/or Magnesium supplementation may help this condition if it persists. I wouldn’t give supplementation without a blood test and a recommendation by the doctor/vet first during treatment.

-Post hospitalization infection- For the first several days after the bite the wound and the area around it will seep. For a 30lb dog with a bite from an 18-24" snake the "seepage" area was 4-6" by 1.5-2" of constant drainage. This is good, as the venom will come out of this drainage with the blood. Over the period of several days the blood will decrease to a watery drainage. In some instances it is said to be better to drain the area by "sucking" this out... I personally, am not sure how that would be entirely possible, but I've read that sucking it out might help prevent the necrosis; I don't know that for sure though. However, the area is extremely prone to infection. The area cannot be wrapped because wrapping it would hold the toxins in. So it must be open to air and, therefore, bacteria. Broad-spectrum anti-biotics must be administered.

-Dermal Necrosis- necrosis is the localized death of living cells. In this case it will be caused by the venomous injection as well as by inflammation. If this happens, and it likely will, it MUST be treated because cells that die by necrosis may release harmful chemicals that damage other cells. Treatment is surgical removal of the dead tissue and skin/tissue grafting for tissue replacement. I have researched everywhere to try and find a way to prevent necrosis after a venomous bite but I can’t find anything. You can try giving di-methyl-glycine internally for the duration of recovery (as it helps to oxygenate the tissue and may help) and you might try Zinc Oxide ointment topically (only if it doesn’t have other chemical preservatives in it though). However, there is nothing stating that there is any way to prevent the necrosis. Either the victim will get it and need surgery, or will get lucky and not need it. The amount of surgery needed can vary dramatically. It can be anywhere from a skin scraping to an entire amputation. If it requires skin grafting it could be as simple as cutting the necrosis out and sowing the gap back together or as difficult as cutting the necrosis out and bandaging the leg to the body for 2 weeks while they grow together, then cutting them apart, leaving skin tissue on both sides. This could cost anywhere from $200 to $2,000 depending on the circumstance.

There could be more added to this list but I have only compiled the list as of 6 days after the bite. These are the things I have seen happen or have read are likely to happen. Keep an eye out for any change in health or attitude, whatsoever.

Now, what to do in case of snakebite:

-DO keep the victim as calm/immobile as possible. Increasing the blood flow will also increase the flow of venom throughout the system. This can increase the likelihood of dermal necrosis and internal bleeding, etc.

-DO try to determine the basics on the snake WITHOUT PUTTING YOURSELF IN DANGER. Try to assume the snakes size (approximate length and width) color, distinct markings or patterns, and take note of the number of rattles.

Baby rattlesnakes are born with one rattle, which does not make noise, as it doesn't have an additional rattle to rattle against. Each time the snake sheds it skin (once every 3 to 8 months) it grows an additional rattle. Four or more rattles are "ideal" (as ideal as it can be considering the circumstances) because baby rattlesnakes often don't know how to control the amount of venom they inject and can cause more damage than an adult.

-DO immediately remove anything from the body that may cause increased swelling below the bite area (i.e. rings, watch, shoes, tight clothing, collars, etc.). Leaving these things on will be like putting on a tourniquet. This is very important.

-DO immobilize the bite area and keep it in a neutral to below the heart position. I found out this is very difficult; carrying a dog like a suitcase is just as uncomfortable for you as it is for them. First, CALL THE LOCAL FIRE DEPARTMENT (see below). If you are going to carry them at all then attempt to make a sling with a shirt or sweater for small animals. If you are trying to move a big animal you can also try to make a sling and carry it with the assistance of another person and make it as far as you can and try to meet the fire department somewhere closer to a road or easier access point.

-DO get to the vet or hospital IMMEDIATELY.

-DO take a cell phone with you; preferably one cell phone per person. If one person has to run for help and another person has to stay behind there is still a need for communication. In my situation I ran for help and called ahead to the nearest vet to make sure the on-call emergency vet was there, ready and waiting for us. I also asked the vet what to do in the meantime. Then I could call my mom and tell her what the vet said (since we were separated). Also, my mom could call me to tell me where she was and where I could pick her up once I got the car. Cell phones might save your/your pets life. There are cell phones available for emergency calls only. If you don’t own a cell phone get one of those and keep it in your first aid kit.

THE MOST USEFUL SNAKEBITE FIRST AID KIT IS CAR KEYS AND COINS FOR CALLING THE HOSPITAL/VET.

-If you are going to be more than 100 feet from your car or a fairly busy road then:

1) DO NOT GO ALONE

2) BRING A CELLPHONE

Especially in the case of large dogs and people, but in any circumstance... I found out that the LOCAL FIRE DEPARTMENT will come and rescue you in such circumstances, even if it's your dog.

-BEFORE YOU GO HIKING DO find out the phone number of the nearest fire department. I'm not sure what would happen if you called 911, but the impression that I got is that it is best to call the fire department directly.

-DO get pet insurance- This covers a lot of stuff. It will cover at least a portion of everything except regular vaccinations, spay/neuters, and breeding. It will only cover ACL problems if you’ve had the insurance for more than 12 months but other than that it covers pretty much everything. (Our experience with the snake bite cost over $2,700 of which the insurance eventually covered about half.) It costs around $21/mo and might be the only thing that will help you to afford the outrageous cost of an emergency.

What NOT TO DO:

-DO NOT try to kill/capture the snake because this may lead to additional bites and delay your arrival at the hospital or vet.

-DO NOT use a tourniquet. Doing this is basically making the decision to amputate. You can use a ligature and tie off the area with a piece of cloth loose enough to fit your fingers underneath. This will constrict the blood-flow slightly but will not kill the entire limb or cause compartment syndrome, as a tourniquet would.

-DO NOT make an incision at the bite site. If you are not a trained professional you may cause more damage than the bite itself, causing lethal bleeding or infection.

-DO NOT suck the venom with your mouth. Not only could this cause you, potentially the only rescuer on site, to get sick, but your mouth is most certainly dirtier than the bite. It is already likely that the bite will cause necrosis that will need surgery and skin grafting, adding the bacteria in your mouth to this equation could make the injury much worse and much more infected.

-DO NOT pack the limb in ice. Again, this is making the decision to amputate. Yes, the venom being in the system sucks but if the whole body takes some there is a chance everything will be fine, rather than needing an amputation. On average there are 8,000 rattlesnake bites per year (this number is probably very low because many are not reported) and, on average, only 7 people die of rattlesnake bites per year. Amputating a limb is generally not necessary unless someone does something to CAUSE it.

Six ways to distinguish venomous snakes from their non-venomous relatives:

-Rattles at the end of the tail

-Fangs in addition to their rows of teeth

-Facial pits between the nostrils and eyes

Note on facial pits: these pits are the reason rattlesnakes are called "pit-vipers". These pits detect heat... as a matter of fact they can detect heat differences of 1/10th of a degree difference from the background. This is how they aim to strike, as they cannot see well and they don't hear at all. Because of these pits, even if a rattlesnake has been decapitated, IT WILL STILL BITE if the pits detect heat in front of the face. Do not attempt to pick up the head of a venomous snake even if it is decapitated from the body.

-Vertical and elliptical pupils that may look like thin lines in bright light. (Non-venomous snakes have round pupils)

-A single row of scales between the vent and the tip of the tail. (Non-venomous snakes have two rows of scales)

-Broad triangular head and narrow neck.

When are people/pets most likely to encounter snakes?

-Medium temperatures- Snakes are reptiles and can, therefore, not regulate their own body temperatures. Despite popular belief, they cannot tolerate extreme heat (or cold). On days of temperatures between 50 and 85 degrees they are more likely to be out sunning themselves on rocks, in the middle of trails, in grassy areas, etc. These are the days that hikers and pets are most likely to receive “surprise” bites, as no one will have to be snooping to step on a snake. Its likely they will be right out in the open, on a trail, and blending with the background. Only on mid-temperature days will snakes be out to sun themselves... it was 65-70 degrees on the day our dog got bit... the snake was sunning itself in the middle of the hiking trail. NO ONE knew it was there. It did not rattle until after it had done its damage and we had moved away from it.

-Hot/Cold temperatures- they need cool, damp shelters on hot days and are likely to be found in shady areas. On cold days they are likely to be found in sheltered, rocky or ‘burrow’ type areas.

These are they days that your pet might get into them if your pet is a curious snoop- in which case I hear there are places you can take your dog to GET BIT by non venomous snakes to teach them to leave snakes alone.

-Interesting fact, just because you go out when it's wet and/or you don't hear a rattlesnake out, doesn't mean they're not out... Rattlesnakes’ rattles can saturate with water and, when rattled, don't make noise. They may still be out and you just can't hear them.

The best preparation/prevention:

-Know enough about venomous snakes to know when and where they might be. Know what temperatures might cause them to be out, what altitude they don't go above (some rattlesnakes can be found up to 9,500ft) what seasons they are out and when they mate, etc. We were at 6,200ft when Kylie got bit.

-Call parks ahead of time to find out if there have been any snake bites or sightings reported in that area and when.

-Find out the phone number of local fire departments and hospitals/veterinarians

-Wear long, loose pants and calf-high leather boots, or preferably snake guards.

-Sweep areas with a long stick (such as a hiking stick) before entering if you think there is ANY possibility there might be a snake ahead... if you can't see an area, such as spot between rocks on an otherwise clear trail, there may be a snake there.

-Keep your pet on a leash and/or take them to snake "classes"

-Never jump over logs, turn over rocks, put your hands in crevices, or sit down without first carefully checking for snakes.

REMEMBER, RATTLESNAKES DO NOT ALWAYS SHAKE THEIR RATTLES BEFORE STRIKING, so do not rely solely on you sense of hearing.

-If you are confronted with a rattlesnake, remain calm and still at first, then try to back away slowly and carefully.

Rattlesnake repellents include:

Dr. T's Snake-A-Way (7% naphthalene and 28% sulfur), gourd vines, moth balls, sulfur, cedar oil, tacky bird repellent, lime, cayenne pepper spray, sisal rope, coal tar and creosote, liquid smoke, artificial skunk scent, and musk from a king snake (they eat other snakes).

HOWEVER, it has been shown that if a snake really wants to, it will cross into repellent treated areas. Also, none of these things have been shown to be immediately effective. They are used to treat backyards, under houses, etc. Places that can be treated on a daily or weekly basis.

More information:
www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/natres/06501.html
www.emedicine.com/EMERG/topic540.htm
http://coloherb.org/geo/species/specrvi.php

Rocky Mountain Poison and Drug Center
Colorado Toll Free: 800-332-3073
Denver Metro: 303-739-1123
National Toll Free: 800-222-1222

Cooking for your pet

2010-10-27T10:01:00.001-06:00

Man's Best Friend News:
Cooking for your pet.
In light of the recent pet food recalls a lot of us have been cooking for our pets. I definitely think that cooking real food is far above and beyond the nutritional benefit that your pet could ever get from eating grocery store or (most) big box store pet foods. However, feeding your pet just a meat with rice and a couple vegetables is likely to cause nutritional imbalances, leading to health problems in the future.
There are several very good quality products available that are almost the same thing as cooking for your pet that should be used as, at least, a supplement to your home cooked diet, or visa versa.
Some of my recommendations include (all of these products are available at Hero's Pets):
Honest Kitchen foods such as the Force, Verve, Embark, Preference and Prowl. See www.thehonestkitchen.com for ingredients list and more information. These foods are made out of dehydrated raw meats, fruits and vegetables. Force is a grain free maintenance formula, Verve is a maintenance formula with organic grains, Embark is a higher fat formula for younger, more active dogs or for dogs with digestive problems. Preference is a meat-free, grain-free formula with all hypo-allergenic fruits and vegetables, designed for mixing in your own meats. Prowl is a grain-free chicken formula for cats.
Dr. Harvey's has organic grain mixtures and organic vegetable mixtures with vitamin supplements mixed in. www.drharveys.com
Sojourner Farms has all natural grain and vegetable mixtures with vitamin supplements mixed in. www.sojos.com
The Dr. Harvey's and Sojourner Farms diets are designed for mixing in your own meats. There are multiple raw meats available for pets. I RECOMMEND NEVER GIVING MEATS FROM THE GROCERY STORE TO YOUR PET. Those meats are not taken care of the same way and are much more likely to have higher levels of bacteria in them and make your pet sick.
Raw foods I recommend include Nature's Logic, Farmore, Raw Advantage, Bravo and Primal.
If you don't want to do an actual raw meat you can try the Ziwi Peak, which is a shelf stable form of raw. It is more like feeding a jerky. It is from New Zealand so it is free range, antibiotic free, hormone free... the closest you can come to organic without actually paying the price of an organic meat.
For more information on raw come in to Hero's Pets

Cat's Meow:
Cat's are notorious for developing kidney problems as they age. We've almost come to the point where we just expect it as a way of life. But is it just the way it is or are we promoting the problem by our lifestyles and the lifestyles we create for our cats?
If you consider what cats would eat if they ate a raw diet, raw foods are about 70% moisture... kibble diets are only 10%. Cats often live in a chronic state of dehydration if they just eat a dry kibble diet. In addition to that, we often feed them foods that are not natural for them to eat. Cats actually lack certain enzymes required to digest starches, so feeding a cat corn, rice and wheat is like feeding your child plastic. Sure, it might pass, but there is no nutritional value to it for a cat and it won't digest. Feeding a grain free diet is the least you can do for your cat. Feeding a diet with a higher moisture content is the next step toward kidney health. Either wet down their kibble or feed canned or raw. If you feed canned food, make sure it's high quality. Pet food companies don't have to put "real" meat into your cats food and "meats" such as chicken feathers and beaks are considered protein but your cats kidneys won't tolerate them well.
Feeding raw is the best thing you can do for your cat. There are multiple raw meats designed for cats, as well as other mixtures to supplement the meat diet.
However, it's not uncommon, in our busy lifestyles, that we don't have time to deal with raw meats for our pets. If you think you won't be able to take time to "make your pet's food" properly then there are other alternatives as well.
Honest Kitchens Prowl formula is a grain free chicken formula designed for cats. It is a dehydrated raw meat, so it is safer than feeding just raw, you just add water and it makes a consistency like canned.
Ziwi Peak has three flavors of "shelf stable" raw designed for cats. It's like a jerky and comes in Venison, Venison and Hoki Fish and Lamb.
For more information about how to keep you cat's kidney's healthy come into Hero's Pets

Blog Purpose

2010-10-25T16:46:00.000-06:00

Hero's P.e.t.s. goal is to help change the world for the better.

Not only do we sell the highest quality foods, treats, supplements, toys, beds and more but we also focus on maintaining a knowledgeable staff that can help educate people about ecological local and global issues, nutrition and more.

The pet foods that we carry are limited to companies that have the best history of quality control and cleanliness, in addition to being good quality with human grade ingredients.